{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O225319"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O225319/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2010EF1342/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2010EF1342/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2010EF1342","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O225319/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O225319","accessionNumber":"E.1164-1933","objectType":"Embroidery design","titles":[{"title":"'Part II: Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil'","type":"series title"},{"title":"'Further Delights of the Art and Industry of practising Needle and Loom; or newly invented Sewing and Embroidery book Another part'","type":""}],"summaryDescription":"Designs for the pocket and side of the front bodice of a woman's jacket in the Saxony style. In addition, the rectangular design is for the cuff of a man's nightgown. The designs are from a pattern book for embroidery (about 1742) by Margaretha Helm (neé Mainberger) (born in 1659 in Deiningen, died in 1742 in Nuremberg, Germany). The technical information in the preface of the pattern book explains that these designs can be embroidered in long and short stitch, satin stitch encroaching, or whitework on satin, taffeta, or linen. Long and Short stitch may be worked in any direction and it is most commonly used in embroidery.  Satin stitch encroaching is used for shading areas. It is a technique that consists of long and short stitches that are worked into the stitches in the previous rows thus giving the effect of blending tones of colour.  Whitework is any embroidery in white thread on a white textile.\r\n\r\nHelm worked in Nuremberg as an embroiderer, a teacher of embroidery, and a copperplate engraver who had these designs re-published by Christoph Weigel the Younger (1702-1777). The V&A has a series of pattern books for embroidery in three parts by Margaretha Helm of which this volume is Part II.  It is entitled <i> Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck-Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil</i> or <i>Further Delights of the Art and Industry of the practising Needle and Loom; or the newly invented Sewing and Embroidery Book Another part</i>.","physicalDescription":"Printed designs (3) featuring stylised continous floral and leaf patterns. The largest design, to the bottom right of the page features a bird with oustretched wings surrounded by flowers, including a sunflower. The design at the bottom left of the page features stylised continous floral borders with heavily etched details.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Helm, Margaretha","id":"A25444"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28674"},"note":""},{"name":{"text":"Weigel, Christoph the Younger","id":"A28733"},"association":{"text":"published","id":"x28702"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"ink","id":"AAT15012"},{"text":"laid paper","id":"AAT14184"}],"techniques":[{"text":"etching (printing process)","id":"AAT53241"},{"text":"copper engraving","id":"AAT190531"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Engraving and etching on laid paper.","categories":[{"text":"Designs","id":"THES48968"},{"text":"Embroidery","id":"THES48960"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Europeana Fashion Project","id":"THES265804"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"PDP","id":"THES48595"},"images":["2010EF1342"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"LVLD","id":"THES49658"},"free":"","case":"92","shelf":"C","box":"3A"}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"print","id":""}],[{"text":"drawing","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Nuremberg","id":"x29057"},"association":{"text":"published","id":"x30682"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"ca. 1742","earliest":"1737-01-01","latest":"1746-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"29.8","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Size of plate not exact due to fold","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"29.6","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Size of plate","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'39'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Plate number in ink at bottom right."}],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Designs for the pocket and side of the front bodice of a woman's jacket in the Saxony style and also cuff of a man's nightgown, about 1725 by Margaretha Helm (1659-1742)","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Ludwig, H. <u> Nürnberger naturgeschichtliche Maleria im 17. und 18. Jahrhundert. </u> Mahrburg an der Lahn: Basilisken-Presse, 1998. pp.255 and 333."},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"<u> Nürnberger Künstlerlexikon. </u> München: Manfred H. Grieb, 2007."},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Will, G.A. <u> Supplement zu dem Nürnbergischen Gelehrten Lexicon oder Beschreibung derienigen Personen welche in den Buchstaben A bis Z vischer gänzlich ausgelassen worden sind. </u> Nürnberg, 4, p.421."},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"<u>Victoria and Albert Museum, Department of Engraving, Illustration and Design & Department of Paintings, Accessions 1933</u>, London: Printed under the Authority of the Board of Education 1934"}],"production":"These printed designs by Helm are catalogued as Helmin, the feminine form of Helm, in the Micromedia online catalogue.\n\nAttribution note: The technical information in the preface exaplins that these can be embroidered in long and short stitch, satin stitch encrouching or whitework on satin, taffeta or linen.\r\n\r\nThe information in the preface for this design states that it belongs to a Saxon jacket for women; these can be sewn on satin, taffeta, linen [Leinwand is actually canvas] and other cloth in long and short stitch [embroidery stitch, shading stitch, satin stitch encroaching, neeldepainting], image or white foliage stitch: On the same sheet [E.1164-1933] is a pattern is a cuff to a sleeve of a man's nightgown , this can be embroidered or sewn with/in gold.","productionType":{"text":"Design","id":"THES48872"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"weavers","id":"AAT25367"},{"text":"stitching","id":"AAT53660"},{"text":"embroidering","id":"AAT53653"},{"text":"jacket","id":"x40630"},{"text":"nightgown","id":"AAT46175"},{"text":"cuff","id":"AAT210488"},{"text":"men's dress","id":"x44155"},{"text":"whitework","id":"AAT227940"},{"text":"long and short stitch","id":"x44157"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["E.1164-1933"],"accessionNumberNum":"1164","accessionNumberPrefix":"E","accessionYear":1933,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-21","recordCreationDate":"2009-04-17","availableToBook":false}}