{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O220791"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O220791/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2010EF5935/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2010EF5935/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2010EF5935","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2010EE4298","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2010EE4065","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O220791/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O220791","accessionNumber":"E.3393-1932","objectType":"Embroidery design","titles":[{"title":"Kunst-und Fleiss-übende Nadel-Ergötzungen oder neu- erfundenes Neh- und Stick-Buch","type":"series title"},{"title":"The Delights of the Art and Industry of the practising Needle or newly invented Sewing and Embroidery book","type":""},{"title":"Part I","type":"series title"}],"summaryDescription":"This is a printed design for a man's nightcap for embroidery in corded quilting featuring a floral motif. Corded quilting was recorded as a new technique in Germany in 1715 and was fashionable in Britain and Europe. It is from a pattern book for embroidery (about 1725) by Margaretha Helm (neé Mainberger) (born in 1659 in Deiningen, died in 1742 in Nuremberg, Germany). Helm worked in Nuremberg as an embroiderer, a teacher of embroidery and a copperplate engraver who had her designs published by Johann Christoph Weigel. The V&A has a series of pattern books for embroidery in three parts by Margaretha Helm of which this volume is Part I.  It is entitled <i> Kunst-und Fleiss-übende Nadel-Ergötzungen oder neu- erfundenes Neh-und Stick-Buch </i> or \r\n<i>The Delights of the Art and Industry of the practising Needle or the newly invented Sewing and Embroidery Book .</i>","physicalDescription":"Printed design for an embroidered man's nightcap, in corded quilting featuring a stylised floral and leaf motif. The floral motif is in the centre of the dome shaped design and has symmetrical leaves and flowers either side of the central stalk.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Helm, Margaretha","id":"A25444"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28674"},"note":""},{"name":{"text":"Weigel, Johann Christoph (the elder)","id":"A25582"},"association":{"text":"published","id":"x28702"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"ink","id":"AAT15012"},{"text":"laid paper","id":"AAT14184"}],"techniques":[{"text":"engraving","id":"AAT190531"},{"text":"etching","id":"AAT53241"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Engraving and etching on laid paper","categories":[{"text":"Designs","id":"THES48968"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Embroidery","id":"THES48960"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Europeana Fashion Project","id":"THES265804"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"PDP","id":"THES48595"},"images":["2010EF5935","2010EE4298","2010EE4065"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"LVLD","id":"THES49658"},"free":"","case":"92","shelf":"C","box":"3"}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"design","id":"AAT102051"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Nuremberg","id":"x29057"},"association":{"text":"published","id":"x30682"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"ca.1725","earliest":"1720-01-01","latest":"1729-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"19.3","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Size of plate.","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"30.2","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Size of plate.","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'Eine Mans Hauben'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"'A man's hat'","transliteration":"","type":"","note":""},{"content":"'32'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Plate number in ink at bottom left of page."}],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Printed design for an embroidered man's nightcap, in corded quilting, about 1725, by Margaretha Helm (1659-1742).","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Will, G.A. <u> Supplement zu dem Nürnbergischen Gelehrten Lexicon oder Beschreibung derienigen Personen welche in den Buchstaben A bis Z vischer gänzlich ausgelassen worden sind. </u> Nürnberg, 4, p.421"},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"<u> Nürnberger Künstlerlexikon. </u> München: Manfred H. Grieb, 2007."},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Ludwig, H. <u> Nürnberger naturgeschichtliche Malerie im 17. und 18. Jahrhundert. </u>  Mahrburg an der Lahn: Basilisken-Presse, 1998. pp.255 and 333."},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Corvinus, G.S. <u> Nuntzbares galantes </u> p.1238"},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Kraus, Margaretha. <u> Deutliche Vorstellung verschiedener Risse zur löblichen Frauen-Zimmer Arbeit. </u> Published by Johann Christoph Weigels widow. Library of the Germanisches Nationalmuseum (GNM), 1891."},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"<u>Victoria and Albert Museum, Department of Engraving, Illustration and Design & Department of Paintings, Accessions 1933</u>, London: Printed under the Authority of the Board of Education 1934"}],"production":"These printed designs by Helm are catalogued as by Helmin, the feminine of Helm, in the Micromedia online catalogue.\n\nAttribution note: Recorded as a new technique in embroidery in Germany in 1715, corded quilting was fashionable in Europe and Britain. Helm included designs for dress embroidered in corded quilting in some of her pattern books which were likely to be more generic than her own invention. This French technique was praised in the foreword to Kraus's <u> Clear Presentation </u>. That patterns for corded quilting were actually used is shown by garments embroidered int his technique in German dress collections, for example, a woman's nightgown and a child's jacket in the GNM (Germanisches Nationalmuseum). Numerous British examples can be found in collections in the UK.\r\n\r\nMarseilles stiching means corder quilting. See bibliographic reference for Kraus.","productionType":{"text":"Design","id":"THES48872"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"flowers","id":"x35571"},{"text":"nightcaps","id":"AAT46101"},{"text":"quilting","id":"AAT53656"},{"text":"hats","id":"AAT46106"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["E.3393-1932"],"accessionNumberNum":"3393","accessionNumberPrefix":"E","accessionYear":1932,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-21","recordCreationDate":"2009-04-03","availableToBook":false}}