{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O1810514"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1810514/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2025PK7120/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2025PK7120/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2025PK7120","copyright":"Private Collection, Courtesy of Albion Art Jewellery Institute.","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O1810514","accessionNumber":"PROV.2943-2025","objectType":"Tiara","titles":[{"title":"Aquamarine and diamond tiara","type":""}],"summaryDescription":"This kokoshnik-style tiara, is set with graduated step-cut aquamarines of exceptional precision, each cut as an angled rhombohedron to achieve exact a perspective effect with perfect symmetry. Mounted in platinum with diamonds and a gold base, it is believed to have been acquired by Empress Alexandra Feodorovna, (ruled 1894-1917), the last Empress of Russia, from the German jewellery makers, Koch, in the early twentieth century.  \r\n\r\nThe kokoshnik is a traditional Russian headdress for women and girls, the shape of which this tiara simulates. Its name derives from an old Slavic word for ‘hen,’ referring to the ‘cockscomb’, crest-like shape of the headdress.  The kokoshnik form was frequently adapted into jewelled tiaras at the Russian imperial court, also becoming a popular style among European royals.  \r\n\r\nThe first known published reference to this tiara appears in a London Illustrated News article from December 1927. The piece notes that some imperial jewels had already been sold at Christie’s earlier that year, in March. It also reports that around eighty additional items were acquired by a prominent London antiques dealer and transported to Paris, by representatives acting on behalf of the Soviet government. \r\n\r\nThe House of Koch, founded by Robert Koch in Frankfurt am Main, was one of the most prominent jewellery firms in Europe at the time. Koch was a supplier to many royal courts and the European high nobility, with boutiques in Frankfurt and Baden-Baden. Between 1898 and 1918, the firm produced hundreds of tiaras, crowns and headbands.  \r\n\r\nAlexandra Feodorovna, granddaughter of Queen Victoria, became Empress of Russia upon her marriage to Nicholas II in 1894. Described as shy by her family and friends, her reserve was often mistaken for coldness. Alexandra was a carrier of haemophilia and passed the gene to her son, Alexei. The uncurable illness pushed Alexandra towards mysticism and orthodoxy, in hopes to save her only son from an early death. The Romanov dynasty was overthrown during the March 1917 Revolution, and Alexandra and her family were executed in 1918. \r\n\r\nPrivate Collection, Courtesy of Albion Art Jewellery Institute. \r\nThis object features in Divine Jewels, exhibited in the Jewellery Gallery from December 2025 to April 2026. Further examples from the exhibition can be found via Explore the Collections.\r\n","physicalDescription":"An aquamarine and diamond-set tiara, mounted in platinum, in the Russian kokoshnik style, composed of a series of graduated rhombohedral step-cut aquamarines, each within a diamond-set border and a semi-circular surmount centring on an old brilliant-cut diamond collet, the frame composed of a line of old-cut diamonds above and below and with circular rings terminals. ","artistMakerPerson":[],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"Koch","id":"AUTH411084"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"AAT251917"},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"aquamarine","id":"AAT11073"},{"text":"diamond","id":"AAT11084"},{"text":"platinum","id":"AAT11031"},{"text":"gold","id":"AAT11021"}],"techniques":[],"materialsAndTechniques":"","categories":[{"text":"Jewellery","id":"THES48930"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"MET","id":"THES48599"},"images":["2025PK7120"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"91","id":"THES49703"},"free":"","case":"54","shelf":"A","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"tiaras","id":"AAT46046"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Germany","id":"x28873"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"ca. 1910","earliest":"1905-01-01","latest":"1914-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"100","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"140","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Height","value":"50","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Russian Crown Jewels, aquamarine and diamond tiara by Koch, Germany, ca.1910 ","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[{"text":"Albion Art","id":"AUTH410332"}],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"<b>Aquamarine and diamond tiara  </b>\r\nAbout 1910 \r\n\r\nThis kokoshnik-style tiara, inspired by the traditional Russian headdress, shimmers with graduated step-cut aquamarines, each stone expertly cut for exact symmetry and colour balance. Mounted in platinum with diamonds, it is believed to have been acquired by Empress Alexandra Feodorovna, Russia’s last Tsarina.  \n\r\nGermany; made by Koch \r\nAquamarines, diamonds, platinum, gold \r\nPreviously part of the Russian Crown Jewels ","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null}}],"partNumbers":["PROV.2943-2025"],"accessionNumberNum":"2943","accessionNumberPrefix":"PROV","accessionYear":2025,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-01-21","recordCreationDate":"2025-10-02","availableToBook":false}}