{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O1803105"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1803105/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2025PH1354/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2025PH1354/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2025PH1354","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2025PH1353","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O1803105/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O1803105","accessionNumber":"T.111-2025","objectType":"Dress ","titles":[{"title":"'wrap' dress","type":"assigned by artist"}],"summaryDescription":"This dress and the suit (T.110:1 to 3-2025) with which it was acquired were key looks from Torishéju Dumi’s breakthrough fashion show for Spring/Summer 2024, staged in Paris in October 2023 to great acclaim. \n\r\nThe London-based British-Nigerian-Brazilian fashion designer, who has since featured on the cover of British <i>Vogue</i> (January 2024), named the collection <i>Fire on the Mountain</i>, a reference to a song that her mother used to sing to encourage her children to hurry along. Dumi told <i>W</i> magazine, ‘The idea for the collection was just putting something on and running out. You’re like – quick, quick, quick […] Everything just wraps around you.’ – concepts reflected in the collection’s asymmetrical wrap garments and tailoring with a twist. The designer, who founded her eponymous world-building label TORISHÉJU in 2023, was inspired by both Nigerian wrapper garments and British suiting. \n\r\nDumi made the garments herself using deadstock fabrics provided by designers Sarah Burton and Craig Green, and collaborated on the production of the show with leading stylist Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, an admirer of the work Dumi created while studying for a Master’s degree in Fashion/Apparel Design Menswear at London’s Central Saint Martins (2019–21) as a Sarabande Foundation Scholar. \n\r\nThis sculptural dress tied informally up the back and featuring numerous fabric-wrapped tubular elements, another leitmotif of the collection, was presented by top model Devyn Garcia as look 19.\r\n","physicalDescription":"Asymmetrical dress in shades of black, blue and red. Contrasting pieces of fabric, in a range of colours and finishes, have been combined throughout. The dress is sleeveless, high at the neck and knee length at the front, with long train elements. It features numerous fabric-wrapped tubes in circular shapes of various sizes. ","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Torishéju Dumi","id":"AUTH398416"},"association":{"text":"designed and made","id":"x28674"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"TORISHÉJU","id":"AUTH407142"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"cotton","id":"AAT14067"},{"text":"","id":""},{"text":"polyester","id":"AAT14546"},{"text":"silk","id":"AAT243428"}],"techniques":[{"text":"wrapping","id":"AAT234992"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Deadstock fabrics, cotton, polyester and silk, polyethylene foam, poppers","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2025PH1354","2025PH1353"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"002","id":"THES404274"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Dress","id":"x47499"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"London","id":"x28980"},"association":{"text":"designed and made","id":"x39722"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"2023","earliest":"2023-01-01","latest":"2023-12-31"},"association":{"text":"designed and made","id":"x39722"},"note":"part of a Spring/Summer 2024 collection"}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"280","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"full length (including trains), flat, approximate"},{"dimension":"Length","value":"130","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"length to end of front of skirt, flat, approximate"},{"dimension":"Width","value":"50","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"width of torso area of the dress, flat, approximate"}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'TORISHÉJU'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"label - white text on a black ground "},{"content":"'OS'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"additional label - white text on a black ground - attached to the brand label, below it"}],"objectHistory":"This dress was made by the designer Torishéju Dumi for her TORISHÉJU Spring/Summer 2024 collection, <i>Fire on the Mountain</i>. During the presentation, staged in Paris in the ballroom of the Shangri-La hotel on 3 October 2023, the ensemble was worn by the model Devyn Garcia. It was styled with a hairpiece by Charlie Le Mindu. The dress was subsequently displayed at Dover Street Market Paris, who asked the brand to produce this dress which was originally imagined as a showpiece. \n\nDumi achieved one of the most distinctive effects of the dress by wrapping textiles around tubular pieces of foam manipulated to form imperfect circles and ovals. The pieces featuring this technique – the culmination of years of  work – speak very directly to the TORISHÉJU Brand Book’s description of the <i>Fire on the Mountain</i> collection as ‘a spectacle that draws us in even as it warps our reality’. They inspired a bespoke TORISHÉJU dress made for the film star  Zendaya for the <i>Dune: Part Two</i> (2024) press tour.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"'Wrap' dress, from the <i>Fire on the Mountain </i>collection, deadstock fabrics, cotton, polyester and silk with polyethylene foam, Torishéju Dumi for TORISHÉJU, London, Spring/Summer 2024 ","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"TORISHÉJU Brand Book (provided 2024)"},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Jo Rodgers, 'Meet Torishéju Dumi, the Designer Shaking Up Paris Fashion Week', <i>W</i> (6 February 2024), https://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/torisheju-dumi-interview-paris-fashion-week\r\n\r\n"}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.111-2025"],"accessionNumberNum":"111","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":2025,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-02-10","recordCreationDate":"2025-04-21","availableToBook":false}}