{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O1802750"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1802750/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2025PG3920/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2025PG3920/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2025PG3920","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O1802750","accessionNumber":"E.140-2025","objectType":"Drawing","titles":[{"title":"New Arch Dress","type":"assigned by artist"},{"title":"New Arch Dress","type":"assigned by artist"}],"summaryDescription":"Steve O Smith produces made-to-order garments from a small studio in east London. Early within his career, Smith developed a highly recognisable style of impressionistic ‘wearable drawings’ based upon his graphite sketches, which he calls 'gesture drawings.' A graduate of Central Saint Martins (University of the Arts London), it was here that Smith’s passion for sketching was reignited, moving to the fore of his creative process. Encouraged by his CSM tutors to be more experimental, Smith sought to make clothes with as much energy as his graphite sketches by creating literal interpretations of them. After unsuccessful attempts by painting directly onto cloth, Smith instead turned to cutting, focussing on recreating his sketches through pattern pieces rather than paint. Working in isolation during the COVID 19 pandemic - and with limited access to materials - Smith struck upon his signature appliqué technique; cutting, collaging and sewing scraps of fabric. After graduation, Smith continued to refine his technique while focussing on offering small quantities of hand-finished, bespoke garments.\r\n\r\nSteve O Smith officially launched during Paris Fashion Week in February 2024, with the Autumn-Winter 2024 collection viewable via private appointment and an online lookbook. The collection featured tailored daywear and organza eveningwear appliquéd with interpretations of Smith’s sketches, whose tromp l’oeil effect was upheld by the monochromatic palette of grey, black and white.\r\n\r\nThe 'New Arch' dress hails from the Spring-Summer 2025 collection, the brand’s second collection, and is loosely inspired by Christian Dior's New Look of 1947. Composed of white organza, hand appliquéd with black silk crepe de chine, the dress’ narrow bodice and broad skirt display Smith’s technique to full effect. The lightweight base of the dress allows the emphatic black lines to almost float, mimicking the freedom and motion of the artist’s hand. Expressing only basic details of cut and silhouette, the contrasting black lines act as the suggestion of a dress, producing the illusion of a sketch come to life. Emphasizing this effect, the dress’ construction is surprisingly 2D. Rather than the full circle-skirt one would expect with a silhouette influenced by mid-century couture, the skirt is wide but narrow, flattened by structural tulle panniers that exaggerate the hips along one axis only.","physicalDescription":"Design sketch on paper","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""},{"name":{"text":"Smith, Steve O","id":"AUTH409472"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"Paper","id":"x30308"}],"techniques":[{"text":"drawing","id":"x32498"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Drawing on paper","categories":[{"text":"Designs","id":"THES48968"},{"text":"Drawings","id":"THES48966"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"PDP","id":"THES48595"},"images":["2025PG3920"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"LVLC","id":"THES49171"},"free":"","case":"MB2A","shelf":"DR110","box":"LOANS"}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Drawing","id":"x32498"}],[{"text":"Design","id":"AAT102051"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"London","id":"x28980"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"2024","earliest":"2024-01-01","latest":"2024-12-31"},"association":{"text":"drawn","id":"x30545"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Steve O Smith","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"29.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"21","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Design sketch by Steve O Smith","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["E.140-2025"],"accessionNumberNum":"140","accessionNumberPrefix":"E","accessionYear":2025,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-04-24","recordCreationDate":"2025-04-08","availableToBook":false}}