{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O1797858"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1797858/"}},"images":null,"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O1797858","accessionNumber":"T.27-2026","objectType":"Ensemble","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"LOEWE is a Spanish luxury brand specialising in leather goods, founded by a group of leather craftsmen in Madrid in 1846. The brand was appointed Official Supplier to the Spanish Royal Crown in 1905, having earned a reputation for technical excellence and exquisite craftmanship. In 1965, LOEWE expanded into the ready-to-wear clothing market, capitalising upon the success of their leather goods. Since that time, LOEWE’s artistic direction has been overseen by several prominent names in fashion, including Giorgio Armani, Karl Lagerfeld, Narciso Rodriguez and Stuart Vevers. In 1996, LOEWE was acquired by the multi-national luxury conglomerate LVMH (LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE), which aimed to elevate the brand’s status within high fashion. LOEWE held its first catwalk presentation the following year, as part of Paris Fashion Week, where it continues to launch its new collections.   \r\n\r\nIn 2013, LOEWE hired Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson (b.1984) as Creative Director, a role he fulfilled  until 2025. Anderson’s appointment transformed LOEWE, boosting sales and brand positioning as well as bringing more recognition on the international stage. A graduate of London College of Fashion (University of the Arts London), Anderson founded his own fashion label JW Anderson in 2008, for which he continued to design while working at LOEWE. In 2014 Anderson’s first collection for LOEWE was released to critical acclaim. Designing both menswear and womenswear, Anderson is known for innovative designs that incorporate elements of craft, Surrealism and material experimentation, often reinventing familiar or traditional techniques. His collections balance the unconventional with commercial appeal, juxtaposing eccentric, often sculptural garments and accessories with more understated wardrobe staples. In 2016, Anderson established the LOEWE Foundation Craft Prize, supporting independent artists across the globe with the aim of platforming and preserving craft skills.\n\nThis look, a black mini circle skirt with sculptural flower top, was presented during LOEWE's Spring-Summer 2023 womenswear collection. The collection is one of Anderson’s best known, colloquially referred to as the ‘anthurium collection’ as it incorporates the tropical flower into several looks. Anderson was drawn to the fantastical, almost synthetic appearance of the anthurium, describing how the ‘tension and precision of an anthurium flower provides inspiration: a product of nature that looks like an object of design.’ The look sees Anderson play with illusion, scale and materiality to subvert fashion norms. Florals have proved an enduring motif within fashion but here Anderson challenges associations of dainty femininity by creating rigid resin and metal renditions of the poisonous, phallic flower that almost engulf the wearer. The purple shoes - known as the 'Comic foam pump' - introduce a playful, surreal element to the ensemble, with their exaggerated proportions recalling cartoonish dolls' shoes. Garments featuring the anthurium flower became some of Anderson’s most memorable designs, spreading throughout fashion media and social media and worn by several celebrities at a range of red-carpet events. ","physicalDescription":"Ensemble of skirt, top and shoes. The skirt is a mini length, black knitted circle skirt, with a ribbed knit waistband and zip fastening. The top is a sculptural breastplate style, cast in the form of a large red anthurium flower. The flower is made of enamelled brass, with a yellow and white stamen emerging from the base. The flower is affixed to a metal base that covers the breasts, and sits slightly askew, the point of the flower emerging to the wearer's proper left shoulder. The top is secured in place with two detchable red wires. The shoes are mid-heeled courts shoes, with exaggerated 'inflated' proportions. They are made of violet purple rubber.  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