{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O1797854"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1797854/"}},"images":null,"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O1797854","accessionNumber":"T.23-2026","objectType":"Ensemble","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"LOEWE is a Spanish luxury brand specialising in leather goods, founded by a group of leather craftsmen in Madrid in 1846. The brand was appointed Official Supplier to the Spanish Royal Crown in 1905, having earned a reputation for technical excellence and exquisite craftmanship. In 1965, LOEWE expanded into the ready-to-wear clothing market, capitalising upon the success of their leather goods. Since that time, LOEWE’s artistic direction has been overseen by several prominent names in fashion, including Giorgio Armani, Karl Lagerfeld, Narciso Rodriguez and Stuart Vevers. In 1996, LOEWE was acquired by the multi-national luxury conglomerate LVMH (LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE), which aimed to elevate the brand’s status within high fashion. LOEWE held its first catwalk presentation the following year, as part of Paris Fashion Week, where it continues to launch its new collections.   \n\r\nIn 2013, LOEWE hired Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson (b.1984) as Creative Director, a role he fulfilled  until 2025. Anderson’s appointment transformed LOEWE, boosting sales and brand positioning as well as bringing more recognition on the international stage. A graduate of London College of Fashion (University of the Arts London), Anderson founded his own fashion label JW Anderson in 2008, for which he continued to design  while working at LOEWE. In 2014 Anderson’s first collection for LOEWE was released to critical acclaim. Designing both menswear and womenswear, Anderson is known for innovative designs that incorporate elements of craft, Surrealism and material experimentation, often reinventing familiar or traditional techniques. His collections balance the unconventional with commercial appeal, juxtaposing eccentric, often sculptural garments and accessories with more understated wardrobe staples. In 2016, Anderson established the LOEWE Foundation Craft Prize, supporting independent artists across the globe with the aim of platforming and preserving craft skills.\n\nThis hand-beaded ensemble of sweatshirt and trousers was presented during LOEWE's Autumn-Winter 2024 womenswear collection. For the collection, Anderson took as his starting point what he described as the ‘tropes of class and wealth’, specifically thinking about the luxury collectibles and decorative antiques that have furnished elite homes. The collection’s motifs were sourced from interior design; the beaded design here is derived from an 18th-century micromosaic plaque by Giacomo Raffaelli depicting a goldfinch perched on a branch, defending her nest from a coiled snake below. The intricate caviar-beading and antiquated imagery are at odds with the relaxed, modern attitude inherent in a sweatsuit, offering an unexpected take on both a traditional couture technique and a staple of the contemporary, streetwear wardrobe. The sweatshirt’s crew neck is composed of leather, replacing the typical ribbed-cotton finish. ","physicalDescription":"Ensemble of sweatshirt and trousers. The long-sleeved sweatshirt is completely hand-beaded using small 'caviar' beads forming a goldfinch on a branch deesign. The ground uses white and transparent beads; the bird has been rendered in shades of brown with a red head and yellow feet; green and brown beads have been used to depict the tree, branches and leaves. The bird is positioned crouching down and forward towards a brown snake that emerges from the proper lower right. Three white bird's eggs sit within the tree. The sweatshirt has a crew neck, edged in green leather, and gathered cuffs. The sweatshirt fastens to the reverse with a zip and hook and eye. \r\n\r\nThe matching trousers are also completely hand-beaded using small 'caviar' beads, with the tree branches and leaves continuing down the trouser legs. Around the hems, small green plants are depicted emerging from the ground, rendered in shades of yellow and brown. The trousers fasten wth a zip and button and have beaded belt loops around the waist. There are two functional side seam pockets, and to the reverse tromp l'oeil beading had been used to give the impression of welt pockets. Both sweatshirt and trousers have a loose, relaxed cut.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Jonathan Anderson","id":"AUTH344425"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"LOEWE","id":"A4480"},"association":{"text":"fashion house","id":"x35890"},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"cotton","id":"AAT14067"},{"text":"leather","id":"AAT11845"},{"text":"glass beads","id":"x35177"}],"techniques":[{"text":"Beading","id":"x34622"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":[],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"002","id":"THES404267"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"002","id":"THES404267"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Top","id":"AAT121968"}],[{"text":"Trousers","id":"AAT209935"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"France","id":"x28849"},"association":{"text":"constructed","id":"AAT54608"},"note":""},{"place":{"text":"India","id":"x29790"},"association":{"text":"beaded","id":"AAT235440"},"note":"Hand beaded by Marsil Exports & Imports LLP "}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"2024","earliest":"2024-01-01","latest":"2024-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by LOEWE","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Width","value":"575","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"sweatshirt underarm to underarm ","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"450","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"underarm to sleeve cuff ","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"600","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"neck to hem","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"345","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"trouser waistband ","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"1190","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"trouser waist to hem","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"890","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"trouser inside leg ","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"240","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"trouser leg width","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Beaded sweatshirt and trousers, LOEWE by Jonathan Anderson, Women's Autumn-Winter 2024 collection, 2024.","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"bird","id":"x35043"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.23:1-2026","T.23:2-2026"],"accessionNumberNum":"23","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":2026,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-04-24","recordCreationDate":"2025-02-24","availableToBook":false}}