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Long, balloon sleeves, and a stand up collar. Fastens down the centre with black plastic buttons, with the same buttons also at each cuff. The shirt has a built-in elasticated waist band with a hook and eye closure, below which it  flares out slightly. It is pleated at the back. A white silk label has been sewn into the inner neckline of the shirt. This is embroidered with gold cursive text.\n\n<b>Part 2: <b>Skirt</b></b>\r\nCalf-length, wrap-around skirt in a sarong-like style. The skirt is made up of sections of brightly coloured yellow, jade and magenta silk, patchworked with sections of burgandy and dark blue cotton with bold batik designs in white. The waist is cinched in with a 'paper bag waist'. There are black cotton belt loops attached to the cinched waist. The skirt wraps around the front, and is fastened with a series of silver metal popper fastenings, and two hook and eye fastenings. There is a gathered and pleated section at the front of the skirt, meaning that the hem sits higher than the back. A white silk label has been sewn into the inner waist of the skirt. This is embroidered with gold cursive text, and further hand-written on in black pen.\n\n<b>Part 3: <b>Underpants</b></b>\nDark blue, cotton, Y-front style underpants with elasticated waist and leg holes. There is a small fabric tag attached to the inner seam with faded printed text on it. A white silk label has been sewn into the inner waist of the underpants. This is embroidered with gold cursive text, and further hand-written on in black pen.\n\n<b>Part 4: <b>Tights</b></b>\nSlightly sheer light brown nylon tights with elasticated waist.\n\n<b>Parts 5 and 6: <b>Shoes</b></b>\nTan coloured, 'fisherman style' leather sandals with metal buckles and wooden soles. The outer sandals are formed of braided strips of leather. The inside of each shoe has embossed text on the sole. There is handwriting in pen on the inside of the straps of each shoe.\n\n<b>Part 7: <b>Hat</b></b>\nSailors-style peaked cap. Cream cotton, with black vinyl peak. It has yellow rope braiding attached to the peak with gold metal studs. There is a badge attached to the front of the cap. The badge is made of sculpted gold metal and pieces and beaded embroidery, depicting the British crown jewells, a ship's anchor, and leaves.  The hat is supported inside with bands of cardboard and leather. A bright magenta and red silk fabric flower has been glued to the left side of the cap.  A white silk label has been stuck into the inside of the hat. This is embroidered with gold cursive text, and further hand-written on in blue pen.\n\n<b>Part 8: <b>Necklace</b></b>\nA heavily jewelled two-tier neckpiece, formed of two large semi-circle shapes hanging from a thick gold chain. The two shapes are covered in gold pleather material, and studded with gold pendants and studs, burgundy beads, black plastic gems, and silver metal moon shapes. They are edged with further decorative embroidery with gold and black thread. On the lower shape, a circular piece of felt with a popper fastening has been sewn onto the back. Connected to this popper fastening is a length of white elastic, with velcro attatched to each end. This allows the elastic to be fastened around the chest of the wearer, preventing it from moving around during performance. The circle of felt has been written on with black felt pen. \n\n<b>Part 9: <b>Belt</b></b>\nThick black plastic belt, with silver square metal buckle. The inside of the belt is brown, and has been handwritten on in black pen.\n\n<b>Parts 10 -12: <b>Anklet Straps</b></b>\nThree identical strips of elastic covered in braided metallic bronze pleather. Each strip has a metal hook and eye fastening on each end.\n\n<b>Parts 13-15: Alternative<b> neckpiece, pendant and chain</b></b>\nA gold, beaded fabric neckpiece with orange, peach and green tassels attached to the outer edge and press-stud buttons at the back of the neck. A round brass metal pendant, with a copper-coloured decorative centrepiece and orange felt backing, and a textured metal chainlink necklace.\n\n<b>Parts 16 and 17:<b> Bags</b></b>\nA semi-opaque plastic garment bag, with hole at the top for a hanger to run through. Has a silver metal zip down the centre. There is a paper label with typed blue text that has been stapled to the top of the bag. There is also black pen handwritten text on the outside of the bag. A smaller semi-opaque plastic rectangular shaped bag. It has a silver metal zip across the top. This bag is ripped, and repairs have been attempted with thick black vinyl tape. There is black pen handwritten text on the outside of the bag.\n","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Lefresne, Bernard","id":"AUTH405518"},"association":{"text":"maker","id":"x40240"},"note":"Shoes"},{"name":{"text":"Peter Hall","id":"AUTH401891"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":"Whole costume."}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"Grace Costumes","id":"AUTH405507"},"association":{"text":"maker","id":"x40240"},"note":"Shirt, skirt, underwear and hat"}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"polyester","id":"AAT14546"},{"text":"nylon","id":"AAT14462"},{"text":"silk","id":"AAT243428"},{"text":"cotton","id":"AAT14067"},{"text":"elastic","id":"x29976"},{"text":"plastic","id":"AAT14570"},{"text":"metal","id":"AAT10900"},{"text":"leather","id":"AAT11845"},{"text":"wood","id":"AAT11914"},{"text":"vinyl","id":"AAT14502"},{"text":"cardboard","id":"AAT14224"},{"text":"glue","id":"AAT14815"},{"text":"ink","id":"AAT15012"},{"text":"beads","id":"x32809"},{"text":"paper","id":"x30308"},{"text":"felt","id":"AAT14107"},{"text":"imitation leather","id":"AAT252783"},{"text":"velvet","id":"AAT133711"}],"techniques":[{"text":"machine sewing","id":"AAT257463"},{"text":"hand sewing","id":"AAT257459"},{"text":"embroidery","id":"x40351"},{"text":"handwriting","id":"AAT252927"},{"text":"typing","id":"AAT247929"},{"text":"embossing","id":"AAT53826"},{"text":"Glueing","id":"AAT53012"},{"text":"stapling","id":"AAT53021"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"<b>Part 1: Shirt</b>\nMachine sewn polyester with plastic buttons, metal hook and eye fastening and embroidered label. \n\r\n<b>Part 2: Skirt</b>\nMachine sewn silk and printed cotton, with metal poppers and hook and eye fastenings. Embroidered label with pen handwriting.\n\r\n<b>Part 3: Underpants</b>\nMachine sewn cotton and elastic. Embroidered label with pen handwriting.\n\r\n<b>Part 4: Tights</b>\nMachine sewn nylon and elastic. \n\r\n<b>Parts 5 and 6: Shoes</b>\nMachine sewn and glued leather and wood. Embossed inner soles, and pen handwriting on inside of straps. \n\r\n<b>Part 7: Hat</b>\nMachine sewn and glued cotton, vinyl, cardboard and pleather cap. With glued silk fabric flower, and embroidered bead and metal badge. Embroidered label with pen handwriting.\n\n<b>Part 8: Necklace</b>\n\n\n<b>Part 9: Belt</b>\nMachine sewn plastic belt with metal buckle. Pen handwriting inside.\n\r\n<b>Parts 10 - 12: Anklet Straps</b>\nHand sewn and machine sewn elastic and pleather with metal hook and eye fastenings.\n\r\n<b>Parts 13-15: Alternative<b> neckpiece, pendant and chain</b></b>\nMachine-sewn synthetic leather, cotton and velvet with wooden, plastic and metal beads, and cast metal with glued felt\n\r\n<b>Parts 16 and 17:<b> Bags </b></b>\nMachine sewn plastic bags, with polyester and metal zips. Both have pen handwriting; the larger garment bag also has a stapled, typed paper label. 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YORK","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Embroidered in gold cursive text on the label sewn into the inner neck of the shirt. "},{"content":"GRACE COSTUMES\r\nNEW YORK\r\nX\r\nCARMINE ROJAS","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"The words 'Grace Costumes New York' are embroidered in gold cursive font on the label sewn into the inner waist of the skirt. The words ' X CARMINE ROJAS' have been handwritten onto the label in black pen. "},{"content":"RN 63356-2\r\nWASH DARK\r\nCOLORS SEPERATELY \r\nMEDIUM \r\nSTYLE\r\n330\r\n[FADED] \r\n2/14/83\r\nTUMBLE DRY LOW\r\nMACH. WASH WARM\r\nREMOVE PROMPTLY\r\nLIFT FOR CARE","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Printed on the label sewn into the inner seam of the underwear. Part of the text is faded and illegible. "},{"content":"GRACE COSTUMES\r\nNEW YORK\r\nCARMINE","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"The words 'GRACE COSTUMES NEW YORK' are embroidered in gold cursive text on the label sewn into the inner waistband of the underwear. The word 'CARMINE' has been handwritten onto the label in black pen. "},{"content":"BERNARD\r\nLE FRESNE","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Embossed on the inner sole of both of the shoes. There is a small leaf/tree logo between the words 'LE' and 'FRESNE'. "},{"content":"CARMINE","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"This has been handwritten in black pen in the inner strap of each of the shoes."},{"content":"GRACE COSTUMES\r\nNEW YORK\r\nCARMINE ROJAS","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"The words 'GRACE COSTUMES NEW YOTK' are embroidered in gold cursive text on the label stuck to the inside of the hat. The words 'CARMINE ROJAS' have been handwritten on top of the label in blue pen. "},{"content":"CARMINE","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"This has been handwritten in black pen on the piece of felt stuck to the back of the necklace."},{"content":"CARMINE ROJAS","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"This has been handwritten in black pen on the inside of the belt. "},{"content":"WARDROBE 3:\r\nBAG 6:\r\nCARMINE ROJAS/SERIOUS MOONLIGHT TOUR","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Typed in blue text on the paper label stapled to the outside of the garment bag."},{"content":"CARMINE ROJAS","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"This has been handwritten in black pen on the outside of the garment bag."},{"content":"CARMINE","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"This has been handwritten in black pen on the outside of the accessories bag."}],"objectHistory":"Carmine Rojas is an American bassist and composer. He was invited to play on David Bowie's album <i>Let's Dance</i> in 1983, and then to play on the subsequent <i>Serious Moonlight </i>tour. Rojas' costume was designed by Peter Hall, and consisted of a batik sarong similar to those worn by men in Indonesia and Malaysia, paired with a white sailors cap. The cap may have been a call back to the sailors caps that Bowie himself wore on the 1978<i> Isolar II</i> tour. \n\r\nIn <i>The Complete David Bowie, </i>Nicholas Pegg writes that as well as designing Bowie's costumes for this tour, Peter Hall '... also designed the band's costumes, which Bowie described as \"a slight parody on the New Romantics...\"' He states that 'Hall cast each musician against a different cultural backdrop. \"He saw Carlos as the Gandhi type, or actually more of a prince,\" said Bowie. The Simmons brothers wore striped blazors and fedoras, Carmine Rojas a sailor's cap and sarong, and David LeBolt a [conical straw] hat. The three-man sax section were dressed as a Cossack, an Alpine Mountaineer and a safari hunter. Only latecomer Earl Slick appeared to escape Hall's attentions, sporting a standard rock-guitarist T-shirt and a Knopfler-style headband.'\n\nThese costumes also contain sewn in labels with the name 'Grace Costumes New York'. Grace Costumes was established in New York in 1961 by sisters Grace Miceli and Maria Brizzi. They developed a reputation for high quality theatrical costume making. It is likely that while Peter Hall designed these band costumes, they were made by Grace Costumes.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Costume designed by Peter Hall for Carmine Rojas, for David Bowie's <i>Serious Moonlight</i> tour, 1983","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[{"text":"Rojas, Carmine","id":"AUTH407479"}],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[{"text":"Concert tour: The Serious Moonlight Tour (18 May - 8 Dec 1983)","id":"AUTH401681"}],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["LOAN:AMERICASFOUNDATION.2605:1-2024","LOAN:AMERICASFOUNDATION.2605:2-2024","LOAN:AMERICASFOUNDATION.2605:3-2024","LOAN:AMERICASFOUNDATION.2605:4-2024","LOAN:AMERICASFOUNDATION.2605:5-2024","LOAN:AMERICASFOUNDATION.2605:6-2024","LOAN:AMERICASFOUNDATION.2605:7-2024","LOAN:AMERICASFOUNDATION.2605:8-2024","LOAN:AMERICASFOUNDATION.2605:9-2024","LOAN:AMERICASFOUNDATION.2605:10-2024","LOAN:AMERICASFOUNDATION.2605:11-2024","LOAN:AMERICASFOUNDATION.2605:12-2024","LOAN:AMERICASFOUNDATION.2605:13-2024","LOAN:AMERICASFOUNDATION.2605:14-2024","LOAN:AMERICASFOUNDATION.2605:15-2024","LOAN:AMERICASFOUNDATION.2605:16-2024","LOAN:AMERICASFOUNDATION.2605:17-2024"],"accessionNumberNum":"2605","accessionNumberPrefix":"LOAN:AMERICASFOUNDATION","accessionYear":2024,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"David Bowie Archive Number","id":"THES394108"},"number":""}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-03-27","recordCreationDate":"2024-10-03","availableToBook":true}}