{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O1771790"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1771790/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2025PH1384/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2025PH1384/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2025PH1384","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2025PH1352","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2025PH1385","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2025PH1351","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O1771790/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O1771790","accessionNumber":"T.110:1 to 3-2025","objectType":"Suit","titles":[{"title":"'horned' jacket suit","type":"assigned by artist"}],"summaryDescription":"This suit and the dress (T.111-2025) with which it was acquired were key looks from Torishéju Dumi’s breakthrough fashion show for Spring/Summer 2024, staged in Paris in October 2023 to great acclaim. \n\r\nThe London-based British-Nigerian-Brazilian fashion designer, who has since featured on the cover of British <i>Vogue</i> (January 2024), named the collection <i>Fire on the Mountain</i>, a reference to a song that her mother used to sing to encourage her children to hurry along. Dumi told <i>W</i> magazine, ‘The idea for the collection was just putting something on and running out. You’re like – quick, quick, quick […] Everything just wraps around you.’ – concepts reflected in the collection’s asymmetrical wrap garments and tailoring with a twist. The designer, who founded her eponymous world-building label TORISHÉJU in 2023, was inspired by both Nigerian wrapper garments and British suiting. \n\r\nDumi made the garments herself using deadstock fabrics provided by designers Sarah Burton and Craig Green, and collaborated on the production of the show with leading stylist Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, an admirer of the work Dumi created while studying for a Master’s degree in Fashion/Apparel Design Menswear at London’s Central Saint Martins (2019–21) as a Sarabande Foundation Scholar. \n\r\nOne of Karefa-Johnson’s coups was helping to book superstar model Naomi Campbell, who opened the show wearing this unconventional black suit, which was styled with Dr. Martens and shared widely online.\r\n","physicalDescription":"Black suit consisting of a jacket, trousers and shirt. The black jacket has inverted shoulder features, notch lapels, a black button and welts. It is long with long sleeves. The black trousers are full length and wide legged, with pockets, belt loops, a black button at the centre front and a popper fly. The black collared shirt is made from a striped textile and features black buttons. ","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Torishéju Dumi","id":"AUTH398416"},"association":{"text":"designed and made","id":"x28674"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"TORISHÉJU","id":"AUTH407142"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"merino wool","id":"x33589"},{"text":"cotton","id":"AAT14067"}],"techniques":[{"text":"tailoring","id":"x39134"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Deadstock fabrics, merino wool (jacket and trousers) and cotton (shirt), buttons, poppers","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Tailoring","id":"THES287146"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2025PH1384","2025PH1352","2025PH1385","2025PH1351"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"001","id":"THES404193"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"001","id":"THES404193"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"001","id":"THES404193"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Jacket","id":"THES398689"}],[{"text":"Trousers","id":"AAT209935"}],[{"text":"Shirt","id":"AAT212499"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"London","id":"x28980"},"association":{"text":"designed and made","id":"x39722"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"2023","earliest":"2023-01-01","latest":"2023-12-31"},"association":{"text":"designed and made","id":"x39722"},"note":"part of a Spring/Summer 2024 collection"}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Torishéju","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Width","value":"47","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"jacket","note":"jacket shoulder width, flat, approximate"},{"dimension":"Length","value":"67","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"jacket","note":"jacket sleeve length, flat, approximate"},{"dimension":"Length","value":"87","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"jacket","note":"jacket maximum length, flat, approximate"},{"dimension":"Width","value":"39.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"trousers","note":"trouser waist width, flat, approximate"},{"dimension":"Length","value":"117","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"trousers","note":"trousers length, flat, approximate"},{"dimension":"Length","value":"80","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"shirt","note":"shirt maximum length, flat, approximate"}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'TORISHÉJU'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"label - white text on a black ground - one in the jacket, towards the top back, and one in the shirt, centre back of the collar  "}],"objectHistory":"This suit was made by the designer Torishéju Dumi for her TORISHÉJU Spring/Summer 2024 collection, <i>Fire on the Mountain</i>. During the presentation, staged in Paris in the ballroom of the Shangri-La hotel on 3 October 2023, the ensemble was worn by the model Naomi Campbell. It was styled with Dr. Martens shoes. The suit was loaned to the V&A for the exhibition <i>NAOMI: In Fashion</i>, which ran from 22 June 2024 until 6 April 2025 at V&A South Kensington (https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/naomi). \n\nThe unusual construction of this ‘horned’ jacket creates the impression of inverted shoulders. Variants of this approach were a signature of the collection, appearing on jackets, halter aprons and dresses. The TORISHÉJU Brand Book describes these <i>Fire on the Mountain</i> pieces as ‘baring the bones of their construction’, an idea Dumi had been developing for some years prior to this 2023 presentation.\n\nThe jacket and trousers (the same design but not the exact pieces in the V&amp;A collection) featured in TORISHÉJU’s video submission for the 2025 LVMH prize, some of which was filmed within the V&amp;A's National Art Library (https://www.lvmhprize.com/?pg=torisheju). This design featured prominently across the course of Dumi's involvement with the 2025 LVMH prize. She was awarded the 2025 Savoir Faire Prize.\n\nCampbell wore a jacket with certain similaries to this one to open the TORISHÉJU Spring/Summer 2026 presentation, held in Paris on 1 October 2025.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Suit, ‘horned’ jacket, trousers and shirt, from the <i>Fire on the Mountain</i> collection, deadstock fabrics, merino wool (jacket and trousers) and cotton (shirt), Torishéju Dumi for TORISHÉJU, London, Spring/Summer 2024","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"TORISHÉJU Brand Book (provided 2024)"},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Jo Rodgers, 'Meet Torishéju Dumi, the Designer Shaking Up Paris Fashion Week', <i>W</i> (6 February 2024), https://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/torisheju-dumi-interview-paris-fashion-week\r\n\r\n"}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"TORISHÉJU\r\nBlack 'Horn' Jacket, Shirt and Trousers\r\nTorishéju Dumi's Paris Fashion Week debut opened with Campbell walking onto the runway. Dumi's collection, <i>Fire on the Mountain</i>, mixed design elements such as the Nigerian wrapper with British tailoring. It was a critical success. Campbell's endorsement amplified this, highlighting the work of the emerging designer in the crowded landscape of fashion week.\nReady-to-wear, Spring/Summer 2024\nUK\nMerino wool (jacket, trousers); cotton (shirt)\nLent by TORISHÉJU\n[Image]\nTorishéju Spring/Summre 2024, Paris\n© TORISHÉJU\n\n<i>NAOMI: In Fashion</i> exhibition at V&A South Kensington (22 June 2024 to 6 April 2025)","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null}}],"partNumbers":["T.110:1-2025","T.110:2-2025","T.110:3-2025"],"accessionNumberNum":"110","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":2025,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-12-17","recordCreationDate":"2024-02-02","availableToBook":false}}