{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O1644426"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1644426/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2025PL2080/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2025PL2080/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2025PL2080","copyright":"© Victoria & Albert Museum","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2025PL2082","copyright":"© Victoria & Albert Museum","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2026PM0537","copyright":"© Victoria & Albert Museum","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2026PM0534","copyright":"© Victoria & Albert Museum","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2026PM0533","copyright":"© Victoria & Albert Museum","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2026PM0532","copyright":"© Victoria & Albert Museum","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2026PM0531","copyright":"© Victoria & Albert Museum","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2025PL2083","copyright":"© Victoria & Albert Museum","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2023NL9022","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2023NL9023","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2023NL9024","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2023NL9025","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2023NL9026","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2023NL9027","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2023NL9028","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2023NL9029","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2023NL9030","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O1644426","accessionNumber":"T.42-2022","objectType":"Dress","titles":[{"title":"Dress","type":"generic title"}],"summaryDescription":"This full-length tabard style dress with a train is made of dark pink silk velvet with printed silver motifs. It has pleated silk chiffon inserts with cord fastenings and metal press studs. It closely resembles a Mariano Fortuny garment often worn as a tea gown called the ‘Eleanora’ which emerged around 1910. Shared features include the cut and the use of printed velvet and pleated insertions.\n\r\nThe Fortuny brand was known for flowing womenswear inspired by a range of cultures and periods produced in sumptuous fabrics. In many ways it was extending the work of the late 19th-century Artistic dress reform movement. This design house—founded by the multi-talented Spanish designer Mariano Fortuny (Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo, Marià Fortuny i de Madrazo, 1871–1949) and based in Venice, Italy—was active from 1907 and particularly successful in its early decades. Fortuny made textiles for clothing and furnishing as well as womenswear.\n\r\nMany firms were emulating Fortuny designs and this dress is an example of the phenomenon. Indications that the dress was not made by Fortuny include the lack of a Fortuny label and the beads decorating Fortuny ‘Eleanoras’, and the use of pleated silk chiffon for the insertions along the sides and sleeves. In authentic ‘Eleanoras’ these insertions are made of a less transparent kind of pleated silk, the textile used for Fortuny ‘Delphos’ dresses produced using a technique now attributed to the French designer and inventor Henriette Nigrin (1877–1965) who Fortuny met in 1902. The way in which Nigrin described her relationship with ‘Delphos’ dresses suggests that her involvement went beyond the invention of the permanent pleating method, that she was wholly or at least largely responsible for the design. A design drawing in the V&A collection (V&A E.4825-1958) shows that Madame Handley-Seymour (1867–1948), based in London, England, was amongst the designers imitating the ‘Eleanora’.\n\r\nThis dress was commissioned by Rose Paddock Crane (born 1869) for the 1924 trip from her home in Massachusetts in the United States to England for the presentation at court of her daughter Rosemary Crane (1900–1983). The Crane family derived their wealth from cotton-based paper used primarily for currency. Crane & Co was established in 1801. Early on the company worked with local and regional banks. In 1879 Crane & Co won its first contract to produce currency for the United States government. A velvet dress thought to have been worn by Rosemary Crane was given to the V&A as part of the same donation (V&A T.43-2022). ","physicalDescription":"Full-length tabard dress of dark pink silk velvet with a train. The dress is printed with motifs and has pleated silk chiffon inserts, cord and metal press studs.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"unknown","id":"A1848"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"}],"techniques":[{"text":"","id":""},{"text":"pleating","id":"AAT228556"},{"text":"hand sewing","id":"AAT257459"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk velvet, printed with metal powder (silver), pleated silk chiffon, cord, metal press studs","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2025PL2080","2025PL2082","2026PM0537","2026PM0534","2026PM0533","2026PM0532","2026PM0531","2025PL2083","2023NL9022","2023NL9023","2023NL9024","2023NL9025","2023NL9026","2023NL9027","2023NL9028","2023NL9029","2023NL9030"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"UpObjectStore","id":"THES393033"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Dress","id":"x47499"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":"Probably Europe or the United States"}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"c. 1924","earliest":"1919-01-01","latest":"1928-12-31"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":"1924 or soon before"}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Gift of Arabella Rodriguez and Lucy Rodriguez-Laranjo","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"140","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Maximum","date":{"text":"12/07/2021","earliest":"2021-07-12","latest":"2021-07-12"},"part":"Top of shoulder to hem at front","note":"Measured by conservation"},{"dimension":"Length","value":"180","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Maximum","date":{"text":"12/07/2021","earliest":"2021-07-12","latest":"2021-07-12"},"part":"Top of shoulder to hem at back, including train","note":"Measured by conservation"},{"dimension":"Length","value":"58","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Maximum","date":{"text":"12/07/2021","earliest":"2021-07-12","latest":"2021-07-12"},"part":"Sleeve","note":"Measured by conservation"},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"18","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Maximum","date":{"text":"12/07/2021","earliest":"2021-07-12","latest":"2021-07-12"},"part":"Cuff at wrist","note":"Measured by conservation"},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"90","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Minimum","date":{"text":"12/07/2021","earliest":"2021-07-12","latest":"2021-07-12"},"part":"Bust","note":"Measured by conservation"},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"88","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Minimum","date":{"text":"12/07/2021","earliest":"2021-07-12","latest":"2021-07-12"},"part":"Waist","note":"Measured by conservation"},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"100","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Minimum","date":{"text":"12/07/2021","earliest":"2021-07-12","latest":"2021-07-12"},"part":"Hips","note":"Measured by conservation"}],"dimensionsNote":"Measurements for bust, waist and hips are approximate, measured flat. Dress has an A-line shape.\r\n","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"This dress was commissioned by Rose Paddock Crane (born 1869) for the 1924 trip from her home in Massachusetts in the United States to England for the presentation at court of her daughter Rosemary Crane (1900–1983). The Crane family derived their wealth from cotton-based paper used primarily for currency. Crane & Co was established in 1801. Early on the company worked with local and regional banks. In 1879 Crane & Co won its first contract to produce currency for the United States government. A velvet dress thought to have been worn by Rosemary Crane was given to the V&A as part of the same donation (V&A T.43-2022). \n\r\nAfter marriage in 1930 to John Maurice Hastings, Rosemary Crane Hastings lived in Rousham, Oxfordshire, England. She gifted the dresses to her granddaughter Arabella Rodriguez, who offered them to the V&A. Arabella Rodriguez’s wish was fulfilled by her daughter Lucy Rodriguez-Laranjo.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Full-length tabard dress with a train, dark pink silk velvet printed with silver metal powder, with pleated silk chiffon inserts, cord and metal press studs, closely resembles a Mariano Fortuny dress design, unidentified designer, probably Europe or the United States, around 1924","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":["Silvia Bañares, 'A Short Biographical Note on Henriette Nigrin, Creator of Delphos', Datatèxtil 36 (2017), 73–84.","Linsey Labson, ‘Babani: Life and Legacy of a Forgotten Designer, 1894–1935’ (2021). Paper shared with the V&A by the author."],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.42-2022"],"accessionNumberNum":"42","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":2022,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-02-13","recordCreationDate":"2021-07-16","availableToBook":false}}