{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O15684"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O15684/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2007BM6032/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2007BM6032/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2007BM6032","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2007BM6036","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2007BM6034","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2007BM6033","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2007BM6030","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006BF2567","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2012FK7755","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O15684","accessionNumber":"T.237&A-1986","objectType":"Cocktail dress and jacket","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"The overlapping, curved pleats formed into scalloped panels on this bodice front suggest a stylised rendition of receding waves, an impression further enhanced by the deep sea-blue of the fine, slightly stiff, silk fabric. The controlled movement on the curved, fitted bodice is achieved by the dextrous pleating of fabric cut on the bias, fronted with no visible seams.\r\n\r\nThe scalloped pleating encloses the front torso up to the low, strapless décolletage, and continues across the back in straight, horizontal lines. The bodice fits the figure tightly to the hips and from there the skirt falls in long, soft pleats.","physicalDescription":"Cocktail dress of blue silk and jacket of blue silk organza.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Dessès, Jean","id":"A2118"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"AAT25190"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"},{"text":"organza","id":"x30432"}],"techniques":[{"text":"pleating","id":"AAT228556"},{"text":"velvet weave","id":"x46483"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk, silk organza and velvet ribbon, pleated","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Royalty","id":"THES48899"},{"text":"Evening wear","id":"THES48999"}],"styles":[{"text":"1950s","id":"x37508"},{"text":"New Look","id":"x41632"}],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2007BM6032","2007BM6036","2007BM6034","2007BM6033","2007BM6030","2006BF2567","2012FK7755"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"001","id":"THES307836"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"001","id":"THES307836"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Dress","id":""}],[{"text":"Jacket","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Paris","id":"x29068"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1951","earliest":"1951-01-01","latest":"1951-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Worn and given by HRH Princess Margaret","dimensions":[],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'Jean Desses 17 Avenue Matignon Paris'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Label"}],"objectHistory":"Registered File number 1985/2045.\r\nWorn by HRH Princess Margaret.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Cocktail dress of silk and jacket of silk organza, designed by Jean Dessès, Paris, 1951.","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Wilcox, C. & Mendes, V. <u>Modern Fashion in Detail</u>. London: V&A Publications, 1991, p. 36, ISBN 1 85177 032 1"},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Kensington Palace dress collection"},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Stanfill, S. 'Jean Dessès' in Wilcox, C., ed., <u>The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957</u>. London: V&A Publications, 2007. p. 84-5 and pl. 3.17"}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"Haute couture","id":"THES48861"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"[Cocktail Dress case]\r\n\r\nAfternoon dress (robe après-midi habillée)\r\nJean Dessès (1904-70)\r\nParis\r\nAbout 1951\r\n\r\nThe London Illustrated magazine said that after her eighteenth birthday Princess Margaret began to appear in public as a 'grown up personality'. 'She experimented boldly with her clothes and hairstyles, and adopted the then very New Look.' The bodice of this dress is achieved by the dextrous pleating of fabric cut on the bias. \r\n\r\nSilk\r\n\r\nGiven by Princess Margaret\r\nV&A: T.237-1986","date":{"text":"22/09/2007-06/01/2008","earliest":"2007-09-22","latest":"2008-01-06"}}],"partNumbers":["T.237-1986","T.237A-1986"],"accessionNumberNum":"237","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1986,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE","Dress","Jacket"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-03-19","recordCreationDate":"1999-12-15","availableToBook":false}}