{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O15681"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O15681/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2017KM9821/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2017KM9821/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2017KM9821","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KM9822","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KM9823","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KM9824","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KM9825","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KM9826","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KM9827","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KM9828","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KM9829","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KM9830","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AU1437","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AV6066","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AU6033","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O15681","accessionNumber":"T.124 to C-1983","objectType":"Ball gown","titles":[{"title":"The Renaissance/Gold Collection","type":"named collection"},{"title":"Spinifix","type":"assigned by artist"},{"title":"Mexican Fan","type":"assigned by artist"}],"summaryDescription":"Zandra Rhodes is renowned for her romantic and lavishly embellished evening clothes. In <i>The Observer</i> (9 October 1977) she was described as 'the most original and fearless of British designers, admired for her dedication to doing what she feels'. This innovative creation was part of her Renaissance/Gold (also called Elizabethan) Collection shown in Autumn/Winter 1981. The dress can be worn in several ways, with the under-panniers used as a support for the skirt or with the under-panniers removed and the bodice, which extends into a peplum designed to be worn inside or outside the skirt. The gold lame pleated over-panniers (technically peplums) are optional and can be left off if the wearer wishes.  Zandra Rhodes studied 18th-century panniers in the V&A before completing this 'Renaissance crinoline'.","physicalDescription":"Evening dress consisting of a jacket, skirt, petticoat and apron. Black printed quilted satin bodice, gold pleated polyamide polyester and lamé skirt and peplums (called 'paniers' by designer) over black printed silk tulle.\n\nThe corset is printed with a charcoal print in the 'Spinifix Landscape' print while the net skirt is printed in 'Mexican Fan'.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Rhodes, Zandra","id":"A2356"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"AAT25190"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"satin","id":"AAT132902"},{"text":"polyester","id":"AAT14546"},{"text":"lame","id":"AAT249446"},{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"}],"techniques":[{"text":"printing","id":"AAT53319"},{"text":"quilting","id":"AAT53656"},{"text":"pleating","id":"AAT228556"},{"text":"sewing","id":"AAT53658"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Printed quilted satin, printed silk net and knife-pleated polyamide/polyester/lamé mix","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Evening wear","id":"THES48999"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2017KM9821","2017KM9822","2017KM9823","2017KM9824","2017KM9825","2017KM9826","2017KM9827","2017KM9828","2017KM9829","2017KM9830","2006AU1437","2006AV6066","2006AU6033"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"008","id":"THES307996"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"008","id":"THES307996"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"008","id":"THES307996"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"008","id":"THES307996"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Jacket","id":""}],[{"text":"Petticoat","id":""}],[{"text":"Skirt","id":""}],[{"text":"Apron","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"No","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"London","id":"x28980"},"association":{"text":"designed","id":"x29338"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1981","earliest":"1981-01-01","latest":"1981-12-31"},"association":{"text":"designed and made","id":"x39722"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by the designer","dimensions":[],"dimensionsNote":"approximate footprint (mm): W900 x D550 x H1600","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"A closely related ensemble is preserved in the Zandra Rhodes Digital Study Collection. The database states about our ensemble that it is a \"variation of Zandra Rhodes' Modern Renaissance look\" and identifies the components accordingly as: \"a corset (81/131, black satin with Spinifix Landscape printed in charcoal), a separately attached peplum ('panier') (probably 81/150 or 81/152), an under pannier (SP1) and two skirts - pleated black silk net (81/136) printed with Mexican Fan worn over 81/186.\"\n\nThe codes are Zandra Rhodes's own reference numbers for her work, allowing her to track specific designs.\n\nZandra Rhodes wore a version of this ensemble to the opening of the Barbican, London, in 1982.\r\n","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Quilted satin bodice, polyamide, polyester and lamé skirt and panniers over printed silk tulle, 'Renaissance Cloth of Gold Crinoline' from 'Renaissance/Gold Collection' designed by Zandra Rhodes, London, 1981. Prints: Mexican Fan on skirt, Spinifix on corset.","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"de la Haye, Amy, ed. The Cutting Edge: 50 Years of British Fashion 1947-1997. Victoria and Albert Publications, London, 1997, p. 82."}],"production":"Autumn/Winter 1981","productionType":{"text":"Haute couture","id":"THES48861"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"Inspired by the splendours of Elizabethan dress, Zandra Rhodes used a glitzy, modern synthetic fibre to rework the styles of earlier epochs. Swirls resembling large exotic shells sit poised at the shoulders, and extravagant overpanniers balance on the hips of this dramatic evening dress. Zandra Rhodes was at the forefront of the revival for hooped and corsetted fashions with this 1981 design.","date":{"text":"1997","earliest":"1997-01-01","latest":"1997-12-31"}},{"text":"Zandra Rhodes's 1981 Elizabethan collection was inspired by historic garments in the V&A. Her idea was to recreate panniers, lightweight petticoats with boning supports, to be worn under the voluminous dresses. Wearers could then forego layers of petticoats usually required to achieve the full-skirted look.\r\nThis dress, titled 'Renaissance Cloth of Gold', consists of a bustier jacket, double-layer skirt and a belted apron which forms two fluted gold hip panels either side of the skirt. Zandra Rhodes wore a version of this dress to the opening of London's Barbican Centre in 1982.","date":{"text":"25/07/2012","earliest":"2012-07-25","latest":"2012-07-25"}}],"partNumbers":["T.124-1983","T.124C-1983","T.124A-1983","T.124B-1983"],"accessionNumberNum":"124","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1983,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE","Jacket","Petticoat","Skirt","Apron"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-10-22","recordCreationDate":"1999-12-15","availableToBook":false}}