{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O15576"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O15576/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AV6230/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AV6230/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AV6230","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O15576","accessionNumber":"T.397-1974","objectType":"Evening dress","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"Elsa Schiaparelli (1890–1973) was one of the world’s revolutionary fashion designers. Her   couture house, one of the most discussed of interwar Paris, redefined fashionable taste and   perceptions of beauty in the 20th century. With no formal training, she launched her first fashion collection in 1927. Her bold, often audacious, haute couture creations soon made her the designer   of choice for a confident clientele. Within five years, Maison Schiaparelli employed 400 staff   who created over 7000 couture garments each year.  \n\r\nOften designing to confront and shock, Schiaparelli’s radical approach embraced the new   and experimental, resulting in clothes that were resolutely modern. Perhaps more than any   fashion designer of the era, Schiaparelli urged textile manufacturers to bring her their   newest and best materials. At the same time, Schiaparelli’s impact extended beyond fashion and she possessed a vibrant artistic sensibility. Embedded within Europe’s creative avantgarde, she positioned her work in direct dialogue with art, design and performance. Her collaborations with artists, including Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau and Meret Oppenheim, led to   some of her most radical and memorable designs for clothing, accessories and jewellery. In 1954, Schiaparelli officially retired and closed the doors of her couture salon. She left an enduring mark on the world of fashion and a creative legacy that spanned the cities of Paris, London and New York.\r\n\nThe evening dress was worn by the Duchess of Devonshire and features a textile manufactured by Bianchini-Férier.","physicalDescription":"Under dress of shocking pink Thai silk, with short sleeves and a pleated off-the-shoulder neckline.  The waist is dropped at the sides and the skirt is cut on the cross and is long and flared.  \r\n\r\nThe foundation is over-lain with white silk organza pattern of apple blossom machine embroidered in pink, green, yellow and white cotton with velveteen appliqué.  The organza terminates at the low circular yoke below the neckline and forms a deep frill which encircles the front, shoulders and back and is caught to the underdress of Thai silk at intervals.\r\n\r\nThe dress has a long stiff white Holland petticoat.  It has a white petersham waistband attached to two bones a the front.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Elsa Schiaparelli","id":"A2375"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"AAT25190"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"Bianchini-Férier","id":"A6180"},"association":{"text":"manufacturer","id":"x40315"},"note":"Textile "}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"organza","id":"x30432"},{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"},{"text":"silk thread","id":"x30127"},{"text":"velveteen","id":"AAT227925"}],"techniques":[{"text":"embroidery","id":"x32585"},{"text":"sewing","id":"AAT53658"},{"text":"weaving","id":"AAT53642"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk, machine embroidered organza, cotton, velveteen appliqué, and underdress of Thai silk","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Evening wear","id":"THES48999"},{"text":"Embroidery","id":"THES48960"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2006AV6230"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"011","id":"THES309280"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Evening dress","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Paris","id":"x29068"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"Spring/summer 1953","earliest":"1953-03-01","latest":"1953-08-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by the Duchess of Devonshire","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"60","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Waist","note":""},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"300","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Hem","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"Label red on white reading 'Devonshire'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Small label, red on white"}],"objectHistory":"Donor biography, from the Chatsworth House web-site:\r\n\r\nThe Most Noble Deborah Vivien Cavendish, Dowager Duchess of Devonshire DCVO (1920-2014), née Deborah Freeman-Mitford, was the last of the noted Mitford sisters.\r\nShe married Andrew Cavendish, 11th Duke of Devonshire in 1941. At the time he was not expected to inherit the dukedom but his older brother William was killed in combat in 1944. Andrew became duke, and Deborah became duchess, when the 10th Duke died in 1950.\r\nThe Duchess has been the main public face of Chatsworth House for many decades, and has remained so in her widowhood.  She has written several books about Chatsworth, and has played a key role in the restoration of the house.\r\nIn 1999 she was appointed a Dame Commander of the Royal Victorian Order (DCVO) by Queen Elizabeth II. She has three children, including the 12th Duke. She is a grandmother of the fashion model Stella Tennant.\r\nHer Grace became the Dowager Duchess of Devonshire in 2004 when her son inherited the Dukedom upon the death of her husband of 63 years.\r\n\r\nThe Dowager Duchess was contacted during the course of research for <i>The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957</i> exhibition (2007: V&A), but does not recall to where she wore the dress or the occasion.  She stated that she remembered far clearer the dresses she wore from the 1960s, in particular her favourite, Oscar de la Renta.","historicalContext":"Some of Schiaparelli’s designs during the early 1950’s were very feminine.  This design was likely influenced by the ready to wear lingerie that she launched in 1951 and her designs for Zsa Zsa Gabor as Jane Avril in the film <i>Moulin Rouge</i> in 1952. Gabor's costumes were based upon Toulouse Lautrec's posters depicting Jane Avril.\r\n\r\nThe dress featured the 'shocking pink' colour made famous by Schiaparelli and which characterised her work for many.\r\n\r\nSchiaparelli designs from this year are scarce as the house was facing bankruptcy, and eventually had to close in 1954.","briefDescription":"Evening dress of organza and silk, dress designed by Schiaparelli and textile manufactured by Bianchini-Férier, Paris, spring/summer 1953.","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"Rothstein, Natalie. <u>Four Hundred Years of Fashion</u>. London: Victoria and Albert Museum, 1984. ISBN: 1851771166.","id":"AUTH332588"},"details":"p.94","free":""},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Paris, Centre de Documentation du Costume, (now part of the Musee des Arts de la Mode) Schiaparelli Album no. 52, 1953, p. 217"},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"<i>L'Officiel</i>, June 1953"},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Vickers, H., 'Cecil Beaton' in Wilcox, C., ed., <i>The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57</i>, (V&A Publications, 2007), p.166"},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"<i>Vogue</i> (British), December 2006, p.254-5"},{"reference":{"text":"<i>Fashion : An Anthology by Cecil Beaton</i>. London : H.M.S.O., 1971","id":"AUTH354373"},"details":"no. 227","free":""}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"Haute couture","id":"THES48861"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[{"text":"Beaton, Cecil","id":"N2787"}],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"[Case panel[\r\n<b>Evening and Ballgowns</b>\r\n\r\nThe fashion show culminated with evening dresses (robes du soir), dance dresses (robes à danser), long evening dresses (robes du soir longues), grand evening dresses (robes grand soir) and spectacular gala dresses (robe de gala). Traditionally, the end of the collection was marked by the wedding gown, the robe de mariée. \r\n\r\nSumptuously embroidered and accessorised with jewels, these gowns provided a glittering show at receptions and balls, the opera or the theatre.  Some were specially commissioned for a specific occasion, and worn only once. Many couturiers were also willing to lend expensive gowns for important diplomatic and state occasions. \r\n\r\nThe creation of couture was a matter of national pride, particularly in France. Christian Dior said, ‘My mannequins sail forth like a brilliant armada, all sails flying, going forth to conquer the world in the cause of the new fashion.’\r\n\r\n[object label]\r\nEvening dress (robe du soir)\r\nElsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973)\r\nParis\r\n1953\r\n\r\nSchiaparelli closed her house in 1954. This ballgown, made for the Duchess of Devonshire, is from one of her last collections. The flower-strewn organza skirt illustrates a romantic aspect of Schiaparelli's later work, but the underskirt is in her trademark shocking pink. \r\n\r\nSilk organza with appliqué velvet and embroidery over silk\r\n\r\nGiven by the (now Dowager) Duchess of Devonshire\r\nV&A: T.397-1974","date":{"text":"22/09/2007-06/01/2008","earliest":"2007-09-22","latest":"2008-01-06"}}],"partNumbers":["T.397-1974"],"accessionNumberNum":"397","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1974,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"National Portrait Gallery number","id":"THES280488"},"number":"30081"}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-08-04","recordCreationDate":"1999-12-15","availableToBook":false}}