{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O15445"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O15445/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2017KB5848/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2017KB5848/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2017KB5848","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KB5849","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KB5850","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KB5857","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KB5856","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KB5963","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KB5964","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AT5610","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2007BN1905","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AN8010","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2012FP7457","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2018KP5198","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2018KP5205","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2019MA6857","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O15445/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O15445","accessionNumber":"IS.3-1948","objectType":"Gown","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"Women altered particularly fine chintz gowns to suit new fashions. This chintz gown with gold detailing was originally tailored in the late sack-back style of the 1770s. The overdress had a long pleats falling from the shoulders and was worn with a matching petticoat, stomacher and cuffs. Sometime during the late 1790s the overdress was adapted to create a neo-classical style silhouette by tacking down the pleats, raising the waistline and lengthening the sleeves. This style of dress no longer required the matching petticoat, stomacher or cuffs of the sack-back style. These matching accessories were preserved intact, although at some point the petticoat was also altered, possibly for use as a costume. ","physicalDescription":"Gown of mordant and resist-dyed cotton (chintz) for the British market. Plain white ground with floral motif of meandering stems bearing sprays of flowers and leaves with applied gold leaf accents. The complete ensemble consists of a modified overdress (altered from a sack back gown), a matching petticoat (also altered), and matching stomacher and cuffs.  ","artistMakerPerson":[],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"cotton","id":"AAT14067"},{"text":"gold-leaf","id":"x33207"}],"techniques":[{"text":"mordant dyed","id":"THES260477"},{"text":"resist dyed","id":"AAT53053"},{"text":"painted","id":"x39976"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Mordant and resist-dyed cotton (chintz), applied gold leaf","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"SSEA","id":"THES48598"},"images":["2017KB5848","2017KB5849","2017KB5850","2017KB5857","2017KB5856","2017KB5963","2017KB5964","2006AT5610","2007BN1905","2006AN8010","2012FP7457","2018KP5198","2018KP5205","2019MA6857"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"002","id":"THES404300"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"008","id":"THES306347"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"008","id":"THES312682"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"008","id":"THES312682"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"008","id":"THES312682"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Overdress","id":"AAT209840"}],[{"text":"Petticoat","id":"AAT209927"}],[{"text":"Cuff","id":"AAT210016"}],[{"text":"Cuff","id":"AAT210016"}],[{"text":"Stomacher","id":"AAT215860"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Coromandel Coast","id":"x32021"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":"Fabric produced on the Coromandel Coast"},{"place":{"text":"Britain","id":"x32019"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":"Tailored in Britain"}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"c. 1770","earliest":"1765-01-01","latest":"1774-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":"Fabric produced"},{"date":{"text":"c.1790s","earliest":"1785-01-01","latest":"1803-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":"Gown altered "}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Miss T. Scarth","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"155.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"shoulder to hem","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"126","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"at hem","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"21.5","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"repeat","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"54.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"repeat","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"The name 'Wilde' has been inscribed on portions of the overdress lining","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"The name 'Wilde' may have been the name of one of the owners of this gown. The lining of this gown, where the inscription appears, was put in when the dress was altered sometime in the 1790s. Dressmakers often marked the name of their customers onto fabric to be tailored. Provenance research suggests the alteration may have been commissioned by an Isabella Wilde, of Norfolk, but little is yet known about her. "}],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Gown with matching petticoat, stomacher and cuffs, mordant and resist-dyed cotton (chintz) with applied gold leaf, Coromandel Coast for the British market, c. 1770; Textiles; Clothing; Women's Clothes","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"Crill, Rosemary, <u>Chintz: Indian Textiles for the West</u>, London, 2008.","id":"AUTH325004"},"details":"Plate 83, p. 133","free":""},{"reference":{"text":"Irwin, John and Katherine Brett, Origins of Chintz, London, 1970. With a catalogue of Indo-European cotton-paintings in the Victoria & Albert Museum, London, and the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto. ISBN 112900534.","id":"AUTH325005"},"details":"p. 120, cat. no. 147, pl. 129","free":""},{"reference":{"text":"Swallow, D., Stronge, S., Crill, R., Koezuka, T., editor and translator, \"The Art of the Indian Courts. Miniature Painting and Decorative Arts\", Victoria & Albert Museum and NHK Kinki Media Plan, 1993.","id":"AUTH346698"},"details":"p.p. 164-5, cat. no. 152","free":""}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"GOWN\r\nCotton, mordant- and resist-dyed, with applied gold leaf\r\nCoromandel Coast for the British market\r\nFabric c. 1770s\r\n\r\nWomen altered particularly fine chintz gowns to suit new fashions. This gown was originally tailored in the sack-back style of the 1770s, with long pleats falling from the shoulders. Sometime during the late 1790s the gown was adapted to create a neo-classical style silhouette by tacking down the pleats, raising the waistline and lengthening the sleeves.","date":{"text":"01/08/2017","earliest":"2017-08-01","latest":"2017-08-01"}}],"partNumbers":["IS.3-1948","IS.3A-1948","IS.3B-1948","IS.3C-1948","IS.3D-1948"],"accessionNumberNum":"3","accessionNumberPrefix":"IS","accessionYear":1948,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-06-04","recordCreationDate":"1999-12-15","availableToBook":false}}