{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O15328"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O15328/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AU3328/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AU3328/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AU3328","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O15328/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O15328","accessionNumber":"T.145-1991","objectType":"Dress fabric","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"<b>Object Type</b><br>This fabric is a brocaded silk and was intended for ladies' gowns. The technique of brocading allowed different colours to be introduced into the pattern of a fabric in specific, sometimes very small areas. It was a more laborious process for the weaver than using patterning wefts running from selvedge to selvedge, but the resulting effect could be much more varied and lively.<br><br><b>People</b><br>The design for this silk was commissioned from the freelance silk designer Anna Maria Garthwaite by a master weaver called Mr Pulley. He does not seem to have been a regular customer and is known to have bought only two designs, this one and another for a brocaded silk in 1743.<br><br><b>Time & Place</b><br>Lightweight silks like this with a floral pattern brocaded in delicate colours were very fashionable for women's gowns in the early 1740s. Lengths of this silk, woven with a white rather than pink ground, were exported both to Dublin and to New York, to be made up into dresses which still survive. Overseas trade contributed significantly to the prosperity of the Spitalfields industry in the first half of the 18th century.","physicalDescription":"Brocaded silk with a design of flowering vines on a pale pink ground. Unused loom width of plain woven silk brocaded in silks in shades of white, green, blue, yellow, purple and black. The silk has a little over one complete repeat with meandering green stems and coloured blossoms growing out of them. Both selvedges are intact, each with two green stripes.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Garthwaite, Anna Maria","id":"A8416"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"AAT25190"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"},{"text":"silk thread","id":"x30127"}],"techniques":[{"text":"brocaded","id":"AAT53648"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Brocaded silk","categories":[{"text":"British Galleries","id":"THES48985"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Europeana Fashion Project","id":"THES265804"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2006AU3328"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"52B (VA)","id":"THES49255"},"free":"","case":"CA1","shelf":"","box":"8"}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Dress fabric","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Spitalfields","id":"x29420"},"association":{"text":"woven","id":"AAT53642"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1742","earliest":"1742-01-01","latest":"1742-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[{"object":{"text":"5981:10/B","id":"O92207"},"association":"Design"}],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"115","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"54","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Height","value":"45","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"19.75","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Dimensions checked: Measured; 28/04/2000 by Marilyn Leader","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Purchased. Registered File number 1991/1223.\r\nThe silk would have been intended for fashionable women's dress.","historicalContext":"The design in the Museum (5981.10B) is inscribed 'Mr Pully June 16 1742 Revers'd 3 Shuttles 3/4'. It is illustrated, and Mr Pully's identity is discussed in <u>Silk Designs of the 18th Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum</u> by Nathalie Rothstein, London, 1990.\r\n\r\nTwo other examples of this silk have been identified, both with cream grounds: A dress in the Albany Institute of Arts (1944.60 1-3) and a petticoat in the National Museum of Ireland, Dublin (167-1944).","briefDescription":"Dress fabric of brocaded silk, designed by Anna Maria Garthwaite, woven in Spitalfields, 1742","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"blossom","id":"x36410"},{"text":"flowers (plants)","id":"AAT132399"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"British Galleries:\nLengths of silk of this pattern, woven on a white ground, were exported to Dublin and New York. The export trade formed a significant part of the English silk industry and customers demanded up-to-date designs, however far they lived from London. American newspapers advertised imported silks 'all of the very newest fashion'.","date":{"text":"27/03/2003","earliest":"2003-03-27","latest":"2003-03-27"}}],"partNumbers":["T.145-1991"],"accessionNumberNum":"145","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1991,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":["2019LR1195","2019LP5725","2019LU3042"],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-18","recordCreationDate":"1999-12-15","availableToBook":false}}