{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O1531457"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1531457/"}},"images":null,"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O1531457","accessionNumber":"T.3-2021","objectType":"Dress","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"Practical and colourful printed cotton dresses were standard daywear for women during much of the nineteenth century. Different weights and qualities of fabric and a remarkable variety of patterns were available at different prices for consumers with different levels of income. Competition in the flourishing market for printed dress materials encouraged developments in dye and printing technology and design in Britain and mainland Europe. The British cotton industry was at its height in 1860, employing up to 25% of the population. The industry was reliant on the supply of raw cotton from America, cultivated and processed through the exploitation of enslaved people, which was interrupted by the American Civil War (1861-1865), during which time this dress was probably made.\r\n\r\nThe plain weave cotton of this dress was probably spun, woven and printed using engraved rollers in or near Manchester (or possibly Glasgow). The purple-blue shades were probably achieved using Garancin, extracted from the natural dye madder, available commercially on a large scale from the late 1840s.  The textile would not have been especially expensive because of the limited colour palette. The construction of the dress, a loose wrapping or morning style, also reflects economical dressmaking, as the stripe is not centred at the back of the bodice, perhaps to save on fabric wastage. Matching stripes and checks was generally expected in high-quality dressmaking but could be costly in the quantity of material required. The dress was probably worn by a middle-class woman indoors, possibly for doing tasks such as light housework. Prints on a smaller scale in this colourway were considered working-class fabrics and worn by women in domestic service at the time.\r\n","physicalDescription":"Dress or dressing gown of white cotton printed with a design of a wide vertical floral trails between solid stripe, in shades of blue and purple. Opening at the centre-front with a ruffle trim at neckline and cuffs.","artistMakerPerson":[],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"cotton (textile)","id":"AAT14067"}],"techniques":[{"text":"roller printing","id":"x33305"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"","categories":[{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":[],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"CNTX","id":"THES49199"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"dress","id":"x47499"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Britain","id":"x32019"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1860-1865","earliest":"1860-01-01","latest":"1865-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Informal dress or dressing gown of white cotton printed with purple stripes and flowers","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.3-2021"],"accessionNumberNum":"3","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":2021,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-07-16","recordCreationDate":"2020-02-20","availableToBook":false}}