{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O1531320"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1531320/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2026PN5378/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2026PN5378/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2026PN5378","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2026PN5380","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2026PN5379","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O1531320","accessionNumber":"T.13-2026","objectType":"Waistcoat","titles":[{"title":"Les Incroyables","type":"named collection"}],"summaryDescription":"","physicalDescription":"Waistcoat, upholstery fabric in pink and green stripes, blue cotton velvet lapels, lining and back in mixed calico prints. Plastic buttons","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"John Galliano","id":"A2161"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"calico","id":"AAT132872"},{"text":"cotton velvet","id":"x30366"}],"techniques":[{"text":"sewing","id":"AAT53658"},{"text":"printing","id":"AAT53319"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"cotton velvet, upholstery fabric, printed calico","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2026PN5378","2026PN5380","2026PN5379"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"RAIL","id":"THES385819"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Waistcoat","id":"AAT216053"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"London","id":"x28980"},"association":{"text":"designed and made","id":"x39722"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"June 1984","earliest":"1984-06-01","latest":"1984-06-30"},"association":{"text":"designed and made","id":"x39722"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Gift of Sarah Don","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"53","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"footprint"},{"dimension":"Width","value":"55","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"footprint"}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"This group of three pieces - two waistcoats and an organza shirt - comes from the Les Incroyables collection that Galliano presented in June 1984. Inspired by French revolutionaries, the collection was part of the Central Saint Martins School of Art graduation collections that year. After the first show, Joan Burstein, the proprietor of Brown's, a London boutique renowned for influential and cutting-edge design, famously sought out Galliano backstage and announced, 'I'll have it all.' According to Kerry Taylor's book <i>Galliano: Spectacular Fashion</i> (Bloomsbury, 2020), Galliano's collection went to Brown's the next day and almost immediately sold out (singer Diana Ross purchased a coat) and the designer ended up running a 'mini-factory' from his parents' home in Dulwich in order to meet the demand for orders. The unisex clothes were sewed by him and his friends, with help from machinist outworkers scattered around London.\n\r\nTaylor's description of the collection corresponds exactly to these three garments: 'The brightly coloured waistcoats were made from a mixture of striped and patterned brocades sourced from an upholsterer's in Kensington High St, contrasted with sprigged calico. These were cut high and loose, some left open at the back. The billowing ivory shirts were made from filmy, transparent organza cut along 18th century lines in a simple T-shape with elongated sleeves and double-length cuffs which were worn open and showing below the coat sleeves with large bow-tied cravats. These retailed at Brown's for £150. These were worn with long-john-style knitted cotton jersey breeches.' (Taylor, p.15-16).\n\nUnlike the other waistcoat, which has buttons made from oxidised old pennies, this waistcoat has normal plastic buttons. This indicates that it was made after Galliano was advised to remove the penny buttons and use plastic buttons or foreign coins, as it was illegal to deface an image of the Queen. (Taylor, p.15).\n\n- Daniel Milford-Cottam, 28/01/2026","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Waistcoat, John Galliano, Les Incroyables collection, London, 1984","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.14-2026"],"accessionNumberNum":"14","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":2026,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-10-13","recordCreationDate":"2020-02-18","availableToBook":false}}