{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O152010"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O152010/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2017KL4680/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2017KL4680/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2017KL4680","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O152010/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O152010","accessionNumber":"T.38-2008","objectType":"Bathing costume","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"Supported by the relative affluence of the British middle class and increase in foreign travel, the market for sportswear and beachwear grew rapidly from the 1930s.  This unadorned bathing costume was manufactured by the British firm Shepherd during the Second World War. It is an example of design under Britain's Utility Scheme. Introduced by the Board of Trade in 1941-2, the Utility scheme encompassed a wide range of objects including clothing, hosiery, gloves, furs, footwear, household textiles, bedding and furniture.  The scheme's well recognised CC 41 mark came from the initials for 'civilian clothing' and indicated the date of its first use. The package of administrative measures not only established restrictions on the production and consumption of cloth and men's and women's clothing, but also regulated the style of clothing.  \r\n\r\nParticularly in women’s fashion, after the Utility scheme was introduced garments became closer-fitting and shorter in an attempt to save material. Extraneous elements such as embroidery and garment linings were restricted.  The scheme’s larger aims were to simplify design by setting quality and sizing standards.  In a 1944 media briefing, The Board of Trade claimed that: ‘The Utility mark is … a guarantee to the public … which has become the widest known official “trade mark” ever introduced.’ \r\n\r\nThis swimsuit, in its complete lack of ornament or hint of high style, is an example of the Utility scheme's functional, economical designs for the essential objects of daily life. There were disputes between the Board of Trade and retailers over what was meant by 'essential'. As some might see swimwear as expendable, surviving Utility examples are particularly significant.","physicalDescription":"Navy blue knitted wool bathing costume with thin shoulder straps and a scooped neck.","artistMakerPerson":[],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"Shepherd","id":"A16717"},"association":{"text":"maker","id":"x40240"},"note":""},{"name":{"text":"Utility","id":"A2828"},"association":{"text":"made for","id":"x30791"},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[],"techniques":[],"materialsAndTechniques":"Knitted wool","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Sport","id":"THES48893"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2017KL4680"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"001","id":"THES309476"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"bathing costumes","id":"AAT256685"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Great Britain","id":"x32019"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1945","earliest":"1945-01-01","latest":"1945-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Dr Margaret Bennett","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"81","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"68","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"bust","note":""},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"62.4","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"waist","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'Shepherd / Regd. / Pure Wool / British Make / 38'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"manufacturer's label"},{"content":"CC41","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Utility scheme mark"}],"objectHistory":"Historical significance: There were disputes between the Board of Trade and retailers over what was meant by 'essential', since it was suggested that only 'essential' items were produced under the scheme.\r\nThus Utility swimwear is a particularly interesting and potentially controversial category.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Woven wool bathing costume, Utility, 1945, Britain","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"Mass produced","id":"THES48863"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.38-2008"],"accessionNumberNum":"38","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":2008,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-18","recordCreationDate":"2008-04-03","availableToBook":true}}