{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O1513867"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1513867/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2019MK8939/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2019MK8939/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2019MK8939","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2019MK8940","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2019MK8928","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O1513867/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O1513867","accessionNumber":"T.251-2019","objectType":"Coat","titles":[{"title":"coat","type":""}],"summaryDescription":"","physicalDescription":"Double-breasted coat with a high yoke, four plastic buttons. Cut from a purple slubbed fabric, probably a viscose imitating a raw silk or silk/linen mix. The front interior edges and upper back of the coat opening are lined with the same fabric as the related dress is made of. No size is indicated in the garment. Part of a dress and coat ensemble.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"samuel sherman","id":"AUTH319964"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"dollyrockers","id":"AUTH350029"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"cotton (textile)","id":"AAT14067"},{"text":"plastic","id":"AAT14570"},{"text":"viscose","id":"x32523"}],"techniques":[],"materialsAndTechniques":"probably a viscose imitating a raw silk or silk/linen mix, plastic buttons","categories":[{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2019MK8939","2019MK8940","2019MK8928"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"016","id":"THES305777"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"coat","id":"AAT46143"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"Yes-general","note":"Term 'sambo'"}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"england","id":"x28826"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":"About 1967"}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Beryl Davies","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"87.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"36","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"shoulders","note":""},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"92","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"waist","note":""},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"92","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"bust","note":""},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"48","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"arm opening","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"‘Dollyrockers by Sambo’ was a popular British ready-to-wear fashion brand devised to cater  for teenagers and young women. Following the lead of new brands devoted to youthful,  energetic fashion, such as Mary Quant, manufacturer Samuel Sherman (nicknamed  ‘Sambo’) made Dollyrockers clothes from 1963 to the late-1970s. \r\n\r\nBorn around 1911, Sherman established his first brand ‘Sambo’ in the late 1940s as part of  Samuel Sherman Ltd. The name ‘Sambo’ was also well known in the mid-20th century from  the popular children’s picture book ‘Little Black Sambo’, written by Helen Bannerman in  1899. The book became controversial for promoting racial stereotypes. Samuel Sherman  Ltd. incorporated other labels such as ‘Dollyknits’, ‘Super Dolls’, ‘Colin Glascoe’ and  ‘Concept’. While ‘Super Dolls’ sold designs for larger women, the last two labels were  dedicated to more high-end clothes. Although the group had its own manufacturing facilities  in Peckham, south London, the major part of its total output was made by some thirty outside  subcontract makers.  \r\n\r\nAccording to an article in ‘The Times’ from 11 July 1968, Dollyrockers was a very lucrative  venture: from £2,300 in 1963, Samuel Sherman’s profits rose to £223,000 in 1967. A  substantial distribution network as well as impactful advertising campaigns contributed to  the success of the brand. By 1968, Dollyrockers designs could be purchased from  D.H. Evans, Dickins and Jones, Robinson, and John Lewis in London; Griffin and  Spaldings of Nottingham; Hammonds of Hull; Rackhams of Birmingham. \r\n\r\nIn 1964, Dollyrockers launched their most effective advertising campaign, which  contributed to the fame of the brand. Created in collaboration with Dolcis shoes,  it featured model Pattie Boyd (the girlfriend of George Harrison) in sleeveless  Dollyrockers frocks, worn with coordinated Dolcis shoes. \r\n\r\nDollyrockers clothes were designed in-house by unknown designers who took full  advantage of the vibrant textile designs fueling the youth fashions of ‘Swinging London’.   Labels from other surviving garments show that the company collaborated with Liberty Prints,  and independent designer Pat Albeck also designed textiles for the brand, as a design for a  printed textile at the V&A confirms (E.638-1980).\r\n\nLike many 1960s youth brands, Dollyrockers focused on designing and popularising  garments like mini skirts and trouser suits which appropriated styles from  menswear and childrenswear. Arguably, these styles reflected and promoted  new freedoms and opportunities for young women in post-war Britain, and  changing attitudes to social structures and sexuality. In 1969, Dollyrockers  advertised pant-suits which came with a dress-length tunic top that could  equally be worn on its own.  Like the minidress and coat to be acquired, these  two-piece ensembles allowed for playful mix and matching with other garments.  A typical Dollyrockers dress cost 5 ½ guineas in 1968 (about £105 in today’s currency)  which represents more than half a week’s wages for a shop assistant at the time. This  acquisition was an important investment for Beryl Davies, the original owner. \r\n\r\nThis coat was worn with a matching dress, (T.251-2019). The length of this ensemble  indicates that it was probably made in about 1967, when miniskirts were at their shortest.  Surviving examples show that after this and in the 1970s, Dollyrockers ranges were  dominated by ‘peasant-style’ maxi dresses reflecting the wider return in fashion to eclectic,  hippy clothes.\r\n\r\nIn terms of design, the coat and dress set reflects the contemporary interest in historicism  combined with a resolutely modern short hem. This is seen in the raised double-breasted  yoke of the coat which recalls the empire line of the early nineteenth century, while the floral  print of the dress and lining of the coat is probably influenced by the popularity of Victorian  floral patterns and Liberty prints for children’s dresses, re-appropriated for women’s clothes,  an idea introduced by Mary Quant. Equally, the dress with a coat with matching lining is a  feature seen in 1920s fashion, which was also a reference point for designers in the 1960s.  The strong visual branding of the Dollyrockers label is significant for the history of  fashion marketing.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Dollyrockers by Sambo, c.1967. part of an ensemble with a dress","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.251-2019"],"accessionNumberNum":"251","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":2019,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-18","recordCreationDate":"2019-10-08","availableToBook":true}}