{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O1509238"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1509238/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2023NJ0648/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2023NJ0648/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2023NJ0648","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O1509238/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O1509238","accessionNumber":"ME.119-2019","objectType":"Dress","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"This textile is an example of a traditional Egyptian fabric called tulle-bi-telli, often otherwise known as ‘Asyut’ fabric after the Egyptian city of Asyut, where this type of fabric was traditionally made. It consists of metal strips individually knotted and flattened around a base net fabric, to make patterned designs.Although documented since the eighteenth century, the craft expanded in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, when machine-made tulle was introduced to the area. The fabric is ‘embroidered’ with individual thin strips of beaten metal knotted around the net. Once all the knots have been added, the fabric is rolled to flatten it out. \n\nThese fabrics were often associated with marriage gifts and therefore many of the motifs relate to ideas of fertility, amulets and protection, alongside floral and geometric motifs. Asyut has a large Christian population, and many of the designs also carry specifically Christian significance, such as crosses.\n\nInto the twentieth century, and especially following the discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb and resultant 'Egyptomania' in Europe and North America, these fabrics - and particularly their black and gold or silver colour scheme - gained increased popularity. They were widely purchased as souveniers by tourists, and in many cases the fabric was repurposed into dresses stylistically in keeping with Western fashion. ","physicalDescription":"Dress in black cotton net, with decoration formed of strips of silvered copper individually knotted around the net mesh.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"unknown","id":"A1848"},"association":{"text":"maker","id":"x40240"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"cotton (textile)","id":"AAT14067"},{"text":"metal","id":"AAT10900"}],"techniques":[],"materialsAndTechniques":"Cotton net, silvered copper decoration","categories":[{"text":"Africa","id":"THES49019"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"MES","id":"THES48607"},"images":["2023NJ0648"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"004","id":"THES306237"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"dress","id":"x47499"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Egypt","id":"x29512"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""},{"place":{"text":"Asyut","id":"x41852"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":"possibly"}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"20th Century","earliest":"1900-01-01","latest":"1999-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Gift of Laila Hackforth-Jones","dimensions":[],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"This fabric is one of three examples given to the V&A in 2019 by Laila Hackforth-Jones. They previously belonged to her mother, the noted Egyptologist Margaret Drower, who acquired the pieces whilst excavating in the Armant and Asyut areas in the 1930s. ","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Dress, 'Asyut' work, black cotton net with silvered copper metal strip decoration, Egypt, possibly Asyut, 1930s","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["ME.119-2019"],"accessionNumberNum":"119","accessionNumberPrefix":"ME","accessionYear":2019,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-09","recordCreationDate":"2019-08-29","availableToBook":true}}