{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O1489518"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1489518/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2019MG7931/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2019MG7931/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2019MG7931","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O1489518","accessionNumber":"S.178-2019","objectType":"Costume design","titles":[{"title":"Gloria","type":"generic title"}],"summaryDescription":"Costume design by Andy Klunder for Wendy Ellis in Kenneth MacMillan’s ballet <i>Gloria</i>, 1980. Ellis played the second female lead. The immediate source of inspiration for the ballet was Vera Brittain's autobiography,<i> Testament of Youth</i>, and Ellls's character appears to represent Brittain in her more carefree youth. She leads the ‘Laudamus te’ section with three men, originally Antony Dowson, Ross MacGibbon and Ashley Page. \n\n<i>Gloria</i> was choreographed by MacMillan for The Royal Ballet to Francis Poulenc, 'Gloria in G minor'. It opened at the Royal Opera House, Covent Garden, London, on 13 March 1980. Andy Klunder also designed the set and costumes and the original lighting was by Bill Besant. Described as ‘’a  meditation upon death’s harvest in the First World War’ (Clement Crisp, 1980) is one of Kenneth MacMillan’s most important works, danced by companies internationally and likely to stand the test of  time as a significant ballet. At its premiere, the <i>Illustrated London News</i>, May 1980, noted that the  mood of the ballet ‘is enormously aided by the brilliant and imaginative designs’. The Theatre and Performance collection at the V&amp;A owns costumes for male and female dancers in <i>Gloria</i>.\r\n\r\nThe women’s costumes are all-over lycra body tights in whites, blues, greys and silvers. On their heads  they wear stylised wigs with their hair coiled over their ears. Their make-up is pale and shimmering, suggesting that they are insubstantial memories. John Percival in <i>The Times</i> (14/03/1980) noted that ‘Andy Klunder, has dressed the dancers in greys and gingery browns. The men wear helmets shaped  like tin hats; their tights are textured so that they look flayed. The women’s skirts hang in shreds like shrouds.’ \r\n\r\nThe costumes were made by Zeta of Switzerland and painted and dyed by Covent Garden. The headdresses were made by Vin Burnham.","physicalDescription":"Annotated costume design for Wendy Ellis in <i>Gloria</i>. Blue all-over lycra body tights with short, low-waisted chiffon skirt and stylised wig with coils round the ears. Signed. The reverse is edged with brown manila tape as if previously framed. Drawn on thick paper.\r\n\r\n","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Klunder, Andy","id":"A13805"},"association":{"text":"costume designers","id":"AAT163428"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"paint","id":"AAT15029"},{"text":"ink","id":"AAT15012"},{"text":"pencil","id":"x30347"},{"text":"paper","id":"x30308"}],"techniques":[{"text":"drawing (image-making)","id":"AAT54196"},{"text":"painting (image-making)","id":"AAT54216"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Cellulose paint, ink and pencil on paper","categories":[{"text":"Dance","id":"THES252984"},{"text":"Entertainment & Leisure","id":"THES48959"},{"text":"Designs","id":"THES48968"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&P","id":"THES48602"},"images":["2019MG7931"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"005","id":"THES356596"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Costume design","id":"AAT163423"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Great Britain","id":"x32019"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1980","earliest":"1980-01-01","latest":"1980-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by the artist","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"42.8","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"30.8","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'Ellis'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Written upper left hand corner"},{"content":"'Shiny make-up.' ","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Written to right of face"},{"content":"'This one / shiny.'  ","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Written to left of figure, beside skirt"},{"content":"'costume this / colour. Body / oversprayed / blue.'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Written to right of figure's left leg"},{"content":"'GLORIA'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Written lower left"}],"objectHistory":"Andy Klunder retained these costumes designed for The Royal Ballet until giving them to the V&A.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Costume design by Andy Klunder for Wendy Ellis in Kenneth MacMillan's ballet <i>Gloria</i> for The Royal Ballet, 1980","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["S.178-2019"],"accessionNumberNum":"178","accessionNumberPrefix":"S","accessionYear":2019,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-18","recordCreationDate":"2019-04-17","availableToBook":false}}