{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O143262"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O143262/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2024NX8327/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2024NX8327/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2024NX8327","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AT4800","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O143262","accessionNumber":"T.192-1975","objectType":"Dress fabric","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"This dress fabric is made of lightweight wool and silk. It is printed with a bold pattern of overlapping planes of pale blue, pink, yellow, and white, outlined in black. It was made for use by Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel between 1928 and 1929. The selvage has the words ‘Tricot Chanel’ and its design registration number, 272017, stamped upon it.\r\n\r\nIn the 1920s Chanel began producing jersey textiles under the name of Les Tricots Chanel in partnership with a textile factory in Asnières-sur-Seine. This enabled her to control her own production and guarantee exclusive designs for her couture collections. She employed the multidisciplinary artist Ilia Zdanevich, known as Iliazd, as a textile designer. In 1928 Chanel took over the factory at Asnières and established a new company, Tissus Chanel. \r\n\r\nChanel used printed fabrics for coat linings worn with matching dresses, which became one of her design trademarks, as well as for accessories. A metal top framed handbag dating from 1928-29 made in the same fabric and colourway as this sample survives in the Chanel archives in Paris.","physicalDescription":"Lightweight dress fabric of wool and silk, printed with a bold pattern of overlapping planes of pale blue, pink, beige and cream outlined in black.","artistMakerPerson":[],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"Tricots Chanel","id":"A22165"},"association":{"text":"manufacturer","id":"x33306"},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"wool and silk blend","id":"x40891"}],"techniques":[{"text":"Printed","id":"AAT53319"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Printed wool and silk","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"}],"styles":[{"text":"Art Deco","id":"AAT21426"}],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2024NX8327","2006AT4800"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"SR002","id":"THES340945"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Dress fabric","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"No","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Asnières-sur-Seine","id":"x41213"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1928 - 29","earliest":"1928-01-01","latest":"1929-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[{"object":{"text":"T.191-1975","id":"O67173"},"association":""}],"creditLine":"Given by Manchester Design Registry","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"36","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Maximum","date":{"text":"12/06/2024","earliest":"2024-06-12","latest":"2024-06-12"},"part":"Board","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"52","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Maximum","date":{"text":"12/06/2024","earliest":"2024-06-12","latest":"2024-06-12"},"part":"Board","note":"Design is in 'landscape' orientation "},{"dimension":"Length","value":"34","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Maximum","date":{"text":"12/06/2024","earliest":"2024-06-12","latest":"2024-06-12"},"part":"Textile","note":"Design is in 'landscape' orientation"},{"dimension":"Width","value":"49.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Maximum","date":{"text":"12/06/2024","earliest":"2024-06-12","latest":"2024-06-12"},"part":"Textile","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Measured by conservation","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"Stamped with the registration number '272017'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":""}],"objectHistory":"A metal top framed handbag dating from 1928-29 made in the same fabric and colourway as this sample survives in the Chanel archives in Paris: ACC.HC.INC.1928-1929.1\r\n","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Dress fabric of printed wool and silk, manufactured by Tricots Chanel, Asnières-sur-Seine, France, 1928 - 29.","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"Cullen, Oriole and Karol Burks, Connie. \"Gabrielle Chanel\". London: V&A Publishing, 2023","id":"AUTH397745"},"details":"p 114","free":"From the mid-1920s, advertisements and editorials recommending Chanel handbags appeared regularly in the fashion press. Many of these bags took the form of a structured frame with a top handle similar to this example from 1928. Tiny gold loops on the frame indicate where the now missing handle would have been attached. A sample of fabric from the V&A collection shows the original colourway of the handbag, which has faded through time and use. During this period Chanel produced handbags in a variety of materials, from the softest suede to Chanel’s own print fabrics, often with matching accessories such as scarves and belts. In 1928 the <i>Tatler </i>magazine noted ‘the chief characteristic of Chanel’s bags is novelty’, highlighting several Chanel handbags available from the Fortnum & Mason department store, including two made from a printed Chanel textile design of overlapping square sheets, similar to this bag, with a matching scarf in the same print."}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"[<i>Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto</i> exhibition, September 2023 - March 2024]\n\nBRITISH CHANEL FABRICS\n\r\nIn the late 1920s, Chanel was spending time in Britain due to her relationship with the Duke of Westminster. She opened a salon in Mayfair and was considering possible British business ventures. In February 1929, she registered these textile designs in various colourways. They were the only designs that she ever registered in Britain.\r\n\nTricots Chanel textile samples\r\n1929\r\nPrinted silk and wool crepe\r\nV&A: T.191, 192, 194-1975\r\nGiven by the Manchester Design Registry","date":{"text":"16/09/2023","earliest":"2023-09-16","latest":"2023-09-16"}}],"partNumbers":["T.192-1975"],"accessionNumberNum":"192","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1975,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"","id":""},"number":"270217"}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-05-08","recordCreationDate":"2008-01-10","availableToBook":false}}