{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O143261"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O143261/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2024NX8328/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2024NX8328/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2024NX8328","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AT4798","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O143261","accessionNumber":"T.194-1975","objectType":"Dress fabric","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"This dress fabric is made of lightweight wool and silk. It is printed with a bold pattern of overlapping planes of green, beige and white, outlined in black. It was made for use by Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel in 1929. The selvage has the words ‘Tricot Chanel’ and its design registration number, 272020, stamped upon it.\r\n\r\nIn the 1920s Chanel began producing jersey textiles under the name of Les Tricots Chanel in partnership with a textile factory in Asnières-sur-Seine. This enabled her to control her own production and guarantee exclusive designs for her couture collections. She employed the multidisciplinary artist Ilia Zdanevich, known as Iliazd, as a textile designer. In 1928 Chanel took over the factory at Asnières and established a new company, Tissus Chanel. \r\n\r\nChanel used printed fabrics for coat linings worn with matching dresses, which became one of her design trademarks.","physicalDescription":"Plain weave, lightweight fabric of wool and silk, printed with an abstract pattern of irregular meandering vertical bands in dark and light green, beige, and cream outlined in black.  T.193-1975 and T.195-1975 are the same design in different colourways.","artistMakerPerson":[],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"Tricots Chanel","id":"A22165"},"association":{"text":"manufacturer","id":"x33306"},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"Wool","id":"AAT243430"},{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"}],"techniques":[{"text":"Printed","id":"AAT53319"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Printed wool and silk","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"}],"styles":[{"text":"art deco","id":"AAT21426"}],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2024NX8328","2006AT4798"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"M","id":"THES296974"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Dress fabric","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"No","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Asnières-sur-Seine","id":"x41213"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1928-1929","earliest":"1928-01-01","latest":"1929-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[{"object":{"text":"T.195-1975","id":"O143259"},"association":"Colourway"},{"object":{"text":"T.193-1975","id":"O67174"},"association":"Colourway"}],"creditLine":"Given by the Manchester Design Registry","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Width","value":"52","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Maximum","date":{"text":"12/06/2024","earliest":"2024-06-12","latest":"2024-06-12"},"part":"Board","note":"Textile is stitched to a fabric-covered board. "},{"dimension":"Length","value":"41","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Maximum","date":{"text":"12/06/2024","earliest":"2024-06-12","latest":"2024-06-12"},"part":"Board","note":"Textile is stitched to a fabric-covered board. "},{"dimension":"Length","value":"40","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Maximum","date":{"text":"12/06/2024","earliest":"2024-06-12","latest":"2024-06-12"},"part":"Textile","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"50","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Maximum","date":{"text":"12/06/2024","earliest":"2024-06-12","latest":"2024-06-12"},"part":"Textile ","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Measured by conservation","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'Tricots Chanel'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"French","medium":"","method":"Stamping","position":"Selvedge","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"1) Makers's mark","note":"1) Makers's mark; French; Selvedge; Stamping"}],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Dress fabric of printed wool and silk, manufactured by Tricots Chanel, Asnières-sur-Seine, France, 1928-29.","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"Made for use by Coco Chanel.","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"[Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto exhibition, September 2023 - March 2024]\r\n\r\nBRITISH CHANEL FABRICS\r\n\r\nIn the late 1920s, Chanel was spending time in Britain due to her relationship with the Duke of Westminster. She opened a salon in Mayfair and was considering possible British business ventures. In February 1929, she registered these textile designs in various colourways. They were the only designs that she ever registered in Britain.\r\n\r\nTricots Chanel textile samples\r\n1929\r\nPrinted silk and wool crepe\r\nV&A: T.191, 192, 194-1975\r\nGiven by the Manchester Design Registry","date":{"text":"16/09/2023","earliest":"2023-09-16","latest":"2023-09-16"}}],"partNumbers":["T.194-1975"],"accessionNumberNum":"194","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1975,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"Manufacturer's number","id":"THES57537"},"number":"272020"}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-03-10","recordCreationDate":"2008-01-10","availableToBook":false}}