{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O143259"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O143259/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2025PD5409/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2025PD5409/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2025PD5409","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AT4797","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AL0696","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2019MF1448","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O143259","accessionNumber":"T.195-1975","objectType":"Dress fabric","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"This dress fabric is made of lightweight wool and silk. It is printed with a bold pattern of overlapping planes of blue, beige and white, outlined in black. It was made for use by Coco Chanel in 1929. The selvage has the words ‘Tricot Chanel’ and its design registration number, 272021, stamped upon it.\r\n\r\nIn the early 1920s Chanel opened her own textile factory in Asnières-sur-Seine to cater for the demand for her signature silk-enriched wool and cotton jersey fabrics. This enabled her to control her own production and guarantee that Chanel fabrics were exclusive to her alone. Until around 1929, the factory was called 'Tricot Chanel'. After Chanel expanded into producing exclusive printed silks and other woven fabrics, the factory was renamed 'Tissus Chanel'. \r\n\r\nChanel used printed fabrics for coat linings worn with matching dresses, which became one of her design trademarks.This is a woven fabric stamped 'Tricot Chanel', so is probably one of Chanel's first fabric prints before the factory's official name change.","physicalDescription":"Plain weave, lightweight fabric of wool and silk, printed with an abstract pattern of irregular meandering vertical bands in dark and light blue, beige and cream outlined in black.","artistMakerPerson":[],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"Tricots Chanel","id":"A22165"},"association":{"text":"manufacturer","id":"x33306"},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"Wool","id":"AAT243430"},{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"}],"techniques":[{"text":"Printed","id":"AAT53319"},{"text":"plain weave","id":"x37295"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Printed wool and silk","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"}],"styles":[{"text":"art deco","id":"AAT21426"}],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2025PD5409","2006AT4797","2006AL0696","2019MF1448"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"74","id":"THES49720"},"free":"","case":"CA003","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Dress fabric","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Asnières-sur-Seine","id":"x41213"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"ca. 1928","earliest":"1923-01-01","latest":"1932-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[{"object":{"text":"T.194-1975","id":"O143261"},"association":"Colourway"},{"object":{"text":"T.193-1975","id":"O67174"},"association":"Colourway"}],"creditLine":"Given by the Manchester Design Registry","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"13","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"19","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'Tricots Chanel'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"French","medium":"","method":"Stamping","position":"Selvedge","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"1) Makers's mark","note":"1) Makers's mark; French; Selvedge; Stamping"}],"objectHistory":"Registration number 272021","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Dress fabric of printed wool and silk, manufactured by Tricots Chanel, Asnières-sur-Seine, France, ca. 1928.","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"Made for use by Coco Chanel.","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"Controlling larger-scale production\r\n\r\nIn the early 1920s, fashion designer Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel opened her own textile factory in Asnières-sur-Seine, France to meet growing demand for her fabrics and to gain control over the production process. The dedicated factory also guaranteed that Chanel fabrics were of consistent quality and exclusive to her alone, even when produced at scale. Using these fabrics for matching dresses and coat linings became one of the brand’s design trademarks.\r\n\r\nPatterned dress fabrics \r\nAbout 1928\r\nManufactured by Tricots Chanel, France \r\nPrinted wool and silk \r\nGiven by the Manchester Design Registry \r\nMuseum nos. T.191, 195-1975\r\n\r\nThe object sits in the 'Automation and Labour' section of the Design 1900-Now gallery opened in June 2021.\r\n","date":{"text":"2021","earliest":"2021-01-01","latest":"2021-12-31"}}],"partNumbers":["T.195-1975"],"accessionNumberNum":"195","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1975,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"Manufacturer's number","id":"THES57537"},"number":"272021"}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-05-13","recordCreationDate":"2008-01-10","availableToBook":false}}