{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O143168"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O143168/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2023NH7441/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2023NH7441/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2023NH7441","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2023NH7442","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2023NH7443","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AU4923","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London/Coco Chanel","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O143168","accessionNumber":"T.123 to B-1990","objectType":"Skirt suit","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"In 1954, at the age of 71, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel’s (1883–1971) presented her comeback collection, after an absence of fifteen years.  She challenged the formality and complexity of the fashions of the time, and was critical of designers such as Christian Dior (1905-57). Pat Cunningham, editor of <i>Vogue</i> said, ‘Femininity had gone too far – you needed stage-coach luggage to pack your frocks in and ladies’ maids to fix the trimmings and petticoats. Chanel simplified clothes to meet modern needs.’ \r\n\r\nThis practical, elegant suit is typical of the type of designs that propelled Chanel once again to the forefront of fashion.  The top is made of a comfortable wool jersey, and the jacket is loose fitting.\r\n\r\nThe suit was worn by the 1950s model Anne Gunning Parker (later Lady Nutting).","physicalDescription":"Women's three-piece suit consisting of a skirt, deep rust wool tweed jacket lined in navy blue silk, and a navy blue jersey top with a bow at the neck. Skirt is in rust wool tweed. Buttons covered in rust wool with navy silk centres.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Coco Chanel","id":"A2068"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"AAT25190"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"Chanel","id":"A4468"},"association":{"text":"made and retailed by","id":"x37726"},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"tweed","id":"AAT132867"},{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"},{"text":"jersey","id":"x35748"}],"techniques":[{"text":"woven","id":"AAT53642"},{"text":"hand sewn","id":"AAT257459"},{"text":"lined","id":"AAT162124"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Wool tweed and silk lining with wool jersey trim","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Day wear","id":"THES49000"},{"text":"Europeana Fashion Project","id":"THES265804"}],"styles":[{"text":"1950s","id":"x37508"}],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2023NH7441","2023NH7442","2023NH7443","2006AU4923"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"A","id":"THES404167"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"A","id":"THES404167"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"A","id":"THES404167"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"top","id":"THES259505"}],[{"text":"Skirt","id":""}],[{"text":"Jacket","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"No","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"France","id":"x28849"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"ca. 1956","earliest":"1951-01-01","latest":"1960-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Sir Anthony Nutting, in memory of Anne, Lady Nutting","dimensions":[],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'CHANEL'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Label"}],"objectHistory":"Register File number 1990/125.\r\n\r\nWorn by the model Anne Gunning Parker (later Lady Nutting) and given by Lord Anthony Nutting.\r\n\r\nChanel's come-back in 1954 (after an absence of 15 years), means that this is a very rare example of the period.  The first collection was not very popular and the editor of <i>Vogue</i>  Bettina Ballard recalls that only about six outfits were ordered by buyers [de la Haye, A. & Tobin, S. <i>Chanel: The Couturiere at Work</i> (V&A Publications, 1994), p.94].\r\n\r\nThis suit was part of a large donation of Lady Nutting's Chanel clothes given by Lord Nutting upon  her death, all of which were dated by him as 1960s.  The suit has been reattributed to the mid to late 1950s.  The suit seems to have been altered at the jacket.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Wool tweed skirt and jacket with wool jersey trim and matching wool jersey top, designed by Gabrielle Chanel for CHANEL, Paris, France, ca. 1956","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Wilcox, C. & Mendes, V. <i>Modern Fashion in Detail</i>. London: V&A Publications, 1991, p.56, ISBN 1 85177 032 1"},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"de la Haye, A. & Tobin, S. <i>Chanel: The Couturiere at Work</i> V&A Publications, 1994, p.107."},{"reference":{"text":"Cullen, Oriole and Karol Burks, Connie. \"Gabrielle Chanel\". London: V&A Publishing, 2023","id":"AUTH397745"},"details":"p 200","free":"In 1955 Vogue reported from the Paris collections on ‘a suit that is a fashion-law unto itself – that is to say a Chanel suit. It is one of the few fitted to the waist suits in Paris’. Although Chanel was later known for the boxy cut of her jackets, the period of her relaunch saw her acknowledging the prevailing line of fashion, albeit in her own style as this fitted jacket demonstrates. The rich burgundy tweed of the suit is offset by a deep navy jersey facing on the lapels and cuffs and a trim on the pockets and buttons. In place of a blouse is a charming fitted jersey jumper with buttoned waistline and a small jersey bow at the neck. The suit is one of a number of pieces donated to the V&A from the wardrobe of the model Anne Gunning, later Lady Nutting."}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"Haute couture","id":"THES48861"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[{"text":"Lady Nutting","id":"AUTH397750"}],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"bow","id":"x30687"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"[<i>Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto</i> exhibition, September 2023 - March 2024]\n\nSUIT\n\r\nIn 1955 Vogue reported from the Paris collections on ‘a suit that is a fashion law unto itself – that is to say a Chanel suit. It is one of the few fitted-to-the-waist suits in Paris.’ Although Chanel was later known for the boxy cut of her jackets, the period of her relaunch saw her acknowledge the prevailing line of fashion, albeit in her own subtle style as this fitted jacket demonstrates.\n\r\nAbout 1956\r\nWool tweed, jersey and silk\r\nV&A: T.123 to B-1990\r\nGiven by Sir Anthony Nutting in memory of Anne, Lady Nutting","date":{"text":"16/09/2023","earliest":"2023-09-16","latest":"2023-09-16"}},{"text":"Three-piece suit \r\nGabrielle Chanel (1883-1971)\r\nParis\r\nMid 1950s\r\n\r\nChanel's comeback collection in 1954, after an absence of fifteen years, challenged the formality and complexity of much couture. Pat Cunningham, editor of Vogue, said, 'Femininity had gone too far - you needed stage-coach luggage to pack your frocks in and ladies' maids to fix the trimmings and petticoats. Chanel simplified clothes to meet modern needs.' \r\n\r\nTweed and jersey\r\n\r\nWorn by the model Anne Gunning Parker (later Lady Nutting) and given by Lord Anthony Nutting\r\nV&A: T.123&A, B-1990","date":{"text":"22/09/2007","earliest":"2007-09-22","latest":"2007-09-22"}}],"partNumbers":["T.123-1990","T.123A-1990","T.123B-1990"],"accessionNumberNum":"123","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1990,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE","Top","Skirt","Jacket"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-03-31","recordCreationDate":"2008-01-10","availableToBook":false}}