{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O138819"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O138819/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2023NH7453/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2023NH7453/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2023NH7453","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2023NH7452","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2023NH7455","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006BF7848","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London/Coco Chanel","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006BF2570","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London/Coco Chanel","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O138819","accessionNumber":"T.90&A, B, C-1974","objectType":"Ensemble","titles":[{"title":"Chanel no 11","type":""},{"title":"Kanimura","type":"manufacturer's title"}],"summaryDescription":"This is a classic tailored Chanel suit from Spring Summer 1964. The loosely woven lilac mohair tweed, made by Ascher Ltd, is perfectly handled. The lining, in flower-printed fine silk, also forms the fabric of the sleeveless dress bodice. The skirt is lined in the same silk, a luxurious detail which only the wearer would have been aware of. The jacket has faux blouse sleeves below the wool cuff to make it appear that the wearer is wearing a long-sleeved blouse underneath. The fabrics are extremely lightweight, in tune with Chanel's design philosophy that clothes should be elegant, comfortable, and easy to move in.","physicalDescription":"Purple wool mohair tweed jacket and dress with attached bodice of stone coloured printed silk organza.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Coco Chanel","id":"A2068"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"AAT25190"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"Ascher Ltd","id":"A13990"},"association":{"text":"manufacturer","id":"x33306"},"note":"wool tweed"},{"name":{"text":"Chanel","id":"A4468"},"association":{"text":"made and retailed by","id":"x37726"},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"wool (textile)","id":"AAT243430"},{"text":"organza","id":"x30432"}],"techniques":[],"materialsAndTechniques":"Mohair wool, printed silk organza and metal, lined","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Day wear","id":"THES49000"},{"text":"Europeana Fashion Project","id":"THES265804"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2023NH7453","2023NH7452","2023NH7455","2006BF7848","2006BF2570"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"A","id":"THES404167"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"A","id":"THES404167"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"A","id":"THES404167"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"A","id":"THES404167"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Dress","id":"x47499"}],[{"text":"Jacket","id":""}],[{"text":"Cufflink","id":""}],[{"text":"Cufflink","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"No","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"France","id":"x28849"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1964","earliest":"1964-01-01","latest":"1964-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":"Autumn Winter"}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by the Baroness Alain de Rothschild","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"1015","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"dress bust"},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"685","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"dress waist"},{"dimension":"Length","value":"1115","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"dress"},{"dimension":"Width","value":"445","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"dress shoulder to shoulder seam"},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"1040","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"jacket"},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"925","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"jacket"},{"dimension":"Length","value":"573","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"jacket"}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'CHANEL'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Label"}],"objectHistory":"Worn and given by the Baroness Alain de Rothschild via Cecil Beaton","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Wool mohair tweed 'Kanimura' jacket and dress with attached bodice of printed silk organza 'Chanel no 11', designed by Coco Chanel, woollen textile by Ascher Ltd., France, Haute Couture Autumn Winter 1964","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Wilcox, C. & Mendes, V., <font -u>Modern Fashion in Detail</font>, London: V&A Publications, 1991, p.56., ISBN 1 85177 032 1"},{"reference":{"text":"<i>Fashion : An Anthology by Cecil Beaton</i>. London : H.M.S.O., 1971","id":"AUTH354373"},"details":"52","free":""},{"reference":{"text":"Cullen, Oriole and Karol Burks, Connie. \"Gabrielle Chanel\". London: V&A Publishing, 2023","id":"AUTH397745"},"details":"p 224","free":"Chanel’s experimentation with vibrant colour for her classic tailored suits can be seen in this lilac wool mohair tweed suit from Autumn/Winter 1964. Beneath the jacket, a dress takes the appearance of a separate blouse and skirt. The loosely woven tweed, trademarked Kanimura, was made by London-based textile manufacturer Ascher Ltd. Ascher gained a reputation for developing and supplying a new range of mohair mix fabrics to Paris couture in the late 1950s and ’60s. The material is extremely lightweight compared with traditional wool tweed, in line with Chanel’s design philosophy that clothes should be elegant, comfortable and easy to move in. The jacket is lined with a cream silk printed with mauve and brown irises, which also forms the fabric of the sleeveless dress bodice and neck bow, creating a unified look. The skirt is lined in the same silk, a luxurious detail of which only the wearer would have \r\nbeen aware. The jacket has faux blouse sleeves below the wool cuff , giving the appearance of a long-sleeved blouse underneath. This same suit design featured in British <i>Vogue</i> in May 1964, which celebrated its ‘soft and relaxed tailoring’ and ‘precise detailing’. The suit retailed at British chain\u0002store Wallis, which specialized in ready-to-wear copies of Chanel designs that it off ered at signifi cantly lower prices than the original couture pieces."}],"production":"Mohair tweed 'Kanimura' (trade name for the mohair tweed) by Ascher. ","productionType":{"text":"Haute couture","id":"THES48861"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[{"text":"Rothschild, Alain","id":"C4105"}],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"[<i>Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto</i> exhibition, September 2023 - March 2024]\n\nSUIT\n\r\nLondon-based Ascher Ltd manufactured the loosely woven mohair tweed of this suit. Ascher gained a reputation for developing and supplying a new range of mohair mix fabrics to Paris couture in the late 1950s and 60s. The material is extremely lightweight compared with traditional wool tweed, in line with Chanel’s design manifesto that clothes should be elegant, but comfortable and easy to move in.\n\r\nAutumn/Winter 1964\r\n‘Kanimura’ wool by Ascher, printed silk and gilded metal\r\nV&amp;A: T.90 to C-1974\r\nGiven by the Baroness Alain de Rothschild","date":{"text":"16/09/2023","earliest":"2023-09-16","latest":"2023-09-16"}}],"partNumbers":["T.90-1974","T.90A-1974","T.90B-1974","T.90C-1974"],"accessionNumberNum":"90","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1974,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE","Dress","Jacket"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-10-24","recordCreationDate":"2007-08-30","availableToBook":false}}