{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O136994"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O136994/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2025PE2954/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2025PE2954/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2025PE2954","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2025PE2951","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2025PE2956","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006BK4760","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006BK4758","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O136994","accessionNumber":"T.413-1974","objectType":"Choker","titles":[{"title":"Bustle collection","type":"named collection"}],"summaryDescription":"Elsa Schiaparelli (1890–1973) was one of the world’s revolutionary fashion designers. Her   couture house, one of the most discussed of interwar Paris, redefined fashionable taste and   perceptions of beauty in the 20th century. With no formal training, she launched her first fashion collection in 1927. Her bold, often audacious, haute couture creations soon made her the designer   of choice for a confident clientele. Within five years, Maison Schiaparelli employed 400 staff   who created over 7000 couture garments each year.  \n\r\nOften designing to confront and shock, Schiaparelli’s radical approach embraced the new   and experimental, resulting in clothes that were resolutely modern. Perhaps more than any  fashion designer of the era, Schiaparelli urged textile manufacturers to bring her their   newest and best materials. At the same time, Schiaparelli’s impact extended beyond   fashion and she possessed a vibrant artistic sensibility. Embedded within Europe’s creative   avantgarde, she positioned her work in direct dialogue with art, design and performance. Her collaborations with artists, including Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau and Meret Oppenheim, led to   some of her most radical and memorable designs for clothing, accessories and jewellery. In 1954, Schiaparelli officially retired and closed the doors of her couture salon. She left an enduring mark on the world of fashion and a creative legacy that spanned the   cities of Paris, London and New York.\r\n\nThis necklace was part of Elsa Schiaparelli's Summer 1939, Bustle Collection and was designed by Jean Schlumberger. Her bold approach to colour is demonstrated by this necklace, which sets purple velvet bows against an acid yellow grosgrain ribbon choker. Each bow has a gilt metal pine-cone suspended from it on a thin chain.\r\n\r\n","physicalDescription":"Yellow grosgrain ribbon choker, decorated with purple velvet ribbon bows and gilt metal in the shape of  pine cones suspended from each bow.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Elsa Schiaparelli","id":"A2375"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""},{"name":{"text":"Jean Schlumberger","id":"A20932"},"association":{"text":"Maker, Designer","id":"x30792"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"ribbons","id":"AAT14668"},{"text":"grosgrain","id":"x32508"},{"text":"velvet","id":"x36821"}],"techniques":[],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk and velvet ribbons with gilt metal in the shape of pine cones","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"},{"text":"Jewellery","id":"THES48930"},{"text":"Evening wear","id":"THES48999"}],"styles":[{"text":"Surrealist","id":"AAT21512"}],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2025PE2954","2025PE2951","2025PE2956","2006BK4760","2006BK4758"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"SAINS","id":"THES276095"},"free":"","case":"CA020","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Necklace","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Paris","id":"x29068"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1939","earliest":"1939-01-01","latest":"1939-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Miss Ruth Ford","dimensions":[],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Elsa Schiaparelli (1890–1973) was one of the world’s revolutionary fashion designers. Her couture house, one of the most discussed of interwar Paris, redefined fashionable taste and perceptions of beauty in the 20th century.  With no formal training, she launched her first fashion collection in 1927. Her bold, often audacious, haute couture creations soon made her the designer of choice for a confident clientele. Within five years, Maison Schiaparelli employed 400 staff who created over 7000 couture garments each year.  \r\n\r\nOften designing to confront and shock, Schiaparelli’s radical approach embraced the new and experimental, resulting in clothes that were resolutely modern. Perhaps more than any fashion designer of the era, Schiaparelli urged textile manufacturers to bring her their newest and best materials. At the same time, Schiaparelli’s impact extended beyond fashion and she possessed a vibrant artistic sensibility. Embedded within Europe’s creative avantgarde, she positioned her work in direct dialogue with art, design and performance. Her collaborations with artists, including Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau and Meret Oppenheim, led to some of her most radical and memorable designs for clothing, accessories and jewellery. In 1954, Schiaparelli officially retired and closed the doors of her couture salon. She left an enduring mark on the world of fashion and a creative legacy that spanned the cities of Paris, London and New York.  \r\n\r\nDonated by Miss Ruth Ford, who also donated other Schiaparelli garments and accessories to us. (see items T.392 to 396-1974; and T.411 to 413-1974)","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Choker of silk grosgrain ribbon, velvet bows and gilt metal, Summer 1939, Bustle collection, Jean Schlumberger for Elsa Schiaparelli, Paris.","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"<i>Fashion : An Anthology by Cecil Beaton</i>. London : H.M.S.O., 1971","id":"AUTH354373"},"details":"355","free":""}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"Haute couture","id":"THES48861"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"pine cones","id":"x38987"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"\n<i><b>Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art</b></i><b> (March - November 2026)</b>\n\nChoker\r\nJean Schlumberger for Elsa Schiaparelli\r\nSummer 1939, Bustle collection\r\nParis\r\nSilk velvet, gilt metal\r\nGiven by Ruth Ford\r\nV&amp;A: T.413-1974","date":{"text":"2026","earliest":"2026-01-01","latest":"2026-12-31"}}],"partNumbers":["T.413-1974"],"accessionNumberNum":"413","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1974,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-08-27","recordCreationDate":"2007-07-06","availableToBook":false}}