{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O136994"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O136994/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2025PE2954/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2025PE2954/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2025PE2954","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2025PE2951","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2025PE2956","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006BK4760","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006BK4758","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O136994","accessionNumber":"T.413-1974","objectType":"Choker","titles":[{"title":"The Pagan Collection","type":"named collection"}],"summaryDescription":"This dramatic necklace was part of Elsa Schiaparelli's Pagan Collection of Autumn 1938. Schiaparelli was famous for her creative fashion designs and unexpected surreal touches. Her bold approach to colour is demonstrated by this necklace, which sets purple velvet bows against an acid yellow grosgrain ribbon choker. Each bow has a gilt metal pine-cone suspended from it on a thin chain.\r\n\r\nThe Pagan Collection featured themes and motifs drawn from nature - blossom, leaves, and even insects. The Museum also has a hat from this collection that is trimmed with crawling beetles (see T.427-1974).","physicalDescription":"Yellow grosgrain ribbon choker, decorated with purple velvet ribbon bows and gilt metal in the shape of  pine cones suspended from each bow.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Elsa Schiaparelli","id":"A2375"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"ribbons","id":"AAT14668"},{"text":"grosgrain","id":"x32508"},{"text":"velvet","id":"x36821"}],"techniques":[],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk and velvet ribbons with gilt metal in the shape of pine cones","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"},{"text":"Jewellery","id":"THES48930"},{"text":"Evening wear","id":"THES48999"}],"styles":[{"text":"Surrealist","id":"AAT21512"}],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2025PE2954","2025PE2951","2025PE2956","2006BK4760","2006BK4758"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"SAINS","id":"THES276095"},"free":"","case":"CA020","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Necklace","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Paris","id":"x29068"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"late 1938","earliest":"1938-06-01","latest":"1938-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Miss Ruth Ford","dimensions":[],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Elsa Schiaparelli (1890–1973) was one of the world’s revolutionary fashion designers. Her couture house, one of the most discussed of interwar Paris, redefined fashionable taste and perceptions of beauty in the 20th century.  With no formal training, she launched her first fashion collection in 1927. Her bold, often audacious, haute couture creations soon made her the designer of choice for a confident clientele. Within five years, Maison Schiaparelli employed 400 staff who created over 7000 couture garments each year.  \r\n\r\nOften designing to confront and shock, Schiaparelli’s radical approach embraced the new and experimental, resulting in clothes that were resolutely modern. Perhaps more than any fashion designer of the era, Schiaparelli urged textile manufacturers to bring her their newest and best materials. At the same time, Schiaparelli’s impact extended beyond fashion and she possessed a vibrant artistic sensibility. Embedded within Europe’s creative avantgarde, she positioned her work in direct dialogue with art, design and performance. Her collaborations with artists, including Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau and Meret Oppenheim, led to some of her most radical and memorable designs for clothing, accessories and jewellery. In 1954, Schiaparelli officially retired and closed the doors of her couture salon. She left an enduring mark on the world of fashion and a creative legacy that spanned the cities of Paris, London and New York.  \r\n\r\nDonated by Miss Ruth Ford, who also donated other Schiaparelli garments and accessories to us. (see items T.392 to 396-1974; and T.411 to 413-1974)","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Choker of silk grosgrain ribbon, velvet bows and gilt, 'The Pagan Collection', designed by Schiaparelli, Paris, late 1938.","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"<i>Fashion : An Anthology by Cecil Beaton</i>. London : H.M.S.O., 1971","id":"AUTH354373"},"details":"355","free":""}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"Haute couture","id":"THES48861"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"pine cones","id":"x38987"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.413-1974"],"accessionNumberNum":"413","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1974,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-05-06","recordCreationDate":"2007-07-06","availableToBook":false}}