{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O1357483"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1357483/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2016JL0628/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2016JL0628/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2016JL0628","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O1357483","accessionNumber":"S.314-2016","objectType":"Costume design","titles":[{"title":"Costume design by Louis Kahan (1905-2002) for the Duke of Buckingham in <i>Elizabeth and Essex</i> 1953","type":"generic title"}],"summaryDescription":"Born into a family of Russian Jewish master tailors in Vienna in 1905, Louis Kahan was awarded a master's diploma in tailoring and studied life drawing  before moving to Paris in 1925 where he worked as a tailor and designer for Paul Poiret, designing costumes for Josephine Baker and Collette  amongst others. After serving with the French Foreign Legion he spent time as a war artist in North Africa in 1943-1944 before returning to Paris and  working as a staff artist of Le Figaro, and taking up printmaking. He moved to Perth in 1947 and Melbourne in 1950 where he married Lily Isaac in  1954, spending the first four years of their marriage in Europe where an exhibition of his work was mounted at the Royal Festival Hall in 1955. In  England he produced costume and stage deigns and took part in an exhibition organised by the Australian Art its' Association at the Imperial Galleries  in 1957. He returned to Perth in 1958 and moved to Melbourne in 1960 where he established himself in the suburb of Kew as a portraitist, later returning to printmaking. He was awarded the Australian Painters and Sculptors Medal on his 90th birthday where he died in 2002 aged 97.\r\n","physicalDescription":"Costume design in pencil and gouache on paper showing Buckingham in blue and purple doublet and hose, holding the hilt of his sword with his left hand and a scroll with his right; captioned in pencil: '\"Elizabeth and Essex\" Duke of Buckingham, Louis Kahan '58'","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Kahan, Louis","id":"AUTH338903"},"association":{"text":"costume designers","id":"AAT163428"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"pencil","id":"x30347"},{"text":"gouache","id":"AAT70114"}],"techniques":[{"text":"drawing (image-making)","id":"AAT54196"},{"text":"painting (image-making)","id":"AAT54216"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Pencil and gouache on paper","categories":[{"text":"Costumes","id":"THES269529"},{"text":"Designs","id":"THES48968"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&P","id":"THES48602"},"images":["2016JL0628"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"001","id":"THES356705"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"costume design","id":"AAT163423"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Melbourne","id":"x32322"},"association":{"text":"drawn","id":"x30545"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1953","earliest":"1953-01-01","latest":"1953-12-31"},"association":{"text":"drawn","id":"x30545"},"note":"Despite Kahan dating this design as 1958, his designs in the collections of the Arts Centre Melbourne for the Duke of Suffolk, Sir Walter Raleigh, Queen Elizabeth I, and the similar design for the Duke of Buckingham from the same production, are dated 1953. From the look of the date on this, which is written in a harder pencil from that used by Kahan for his name, it seems that he may have added the incorrect date later when he gave it to the V&A. A review found online of an exhibition of Kahan's work at John Martin's Gallery in Melbourne in the South African newspaper <i>The Mail</i> 6 June 1953 also mentions his designs for Elizabeth and Essex exhibited there."}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by the designer","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"38.2","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"27.4","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Louis Kahan gave this design to the Theatre & Performance Department of the V&A in 1990 along with two other costume designs. In 1998 he presented four other designs from the same production to the Arts Centre, Melbourne. The one of Lord Buckingham in their collection is similar to ours, but without the scroll that he is holding in his right hand.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Costume design for the Duke of Buckingham in <i>Elizabeth and Essex,</i> 1953. Pencil, watercolour and gouache by Louis Kahan (1905-2002). Signed and dated in error in pencil by Kahan 1958","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["S.314-2016"],"accessionNumberNum":"314","accessionNumberPrefix":"S","accessionYear":2016,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-08-06","recordCreationDate":"2016-06-01","availableToBook":true}}