{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O134055"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O134055/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2012FT0526/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2012FT0526/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2012FT0526","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2007BM6314","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2012FT0527","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2012FT0524","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2025PH0268","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2025PH0267","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2025PH0266","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O134055/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O134055","accessionNumber":"T.195-1988","objectType":"Dress fabric","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"Zika Ascher, an innovative textile converter, based himself in London after the annexation of his home country Czechoslovakia in 1939. After the Second World War, Ascher Ltd designed different ranges of textiles for use at the top end of the fashion market, both in couture and high-class ready-to-wear garments. Ascher kept used samples such as this one to show prospective clients his wares, and as a record of his output.\r\n\r\nHe turned his attention to developing mixes incorporating mohair in 1956, seeking out manufacturers with a pedigree for excellence. In the case of woollens, he approached Scottish mills with his new ideas. In collaboration they created a range of dress and coat-weight mohairs. Like wool, mohair was warm and took colour well, but it had the advantage of being much lighter weight (a quality appreciated especially in the USA).  Some were blended with nylon. In 1957, haute couture promoted bulky look outerwear — mohair was the perfect vehicle for this effect.","physicalDescription":"Two-colour dress fabric sample of woven mohair, wool and nylon. Lightweight but quite densely woven, it has a firm but flexible handle, and a hairy surface. The two colours are woven in a plain weave to create the effect of a 'soft-edged' check or splodge. The front of the textile being the inverse of the back in terms of the dominant colour in the pattern. Black and brown, predominantly brown on the outer side. Piece cut from one edge.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Ascher, Zika","id":"A3635"},"association":{"text":"maker","id":"x40240"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"Ascher Ltd","id":"A13990"},"association":{"text":"made for","id":"x30791"},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"mohair","id":"AAT192989"},{"text":"wool (hair)","id":"AAT14074"},{"text":"nylon","id":"x30343"}],"techniques":[{"text":"plain weave","id":"x37295"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Plain woven mohair, wool and nylon","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2012FT0526","2007BM6314","2012FT0527","2012FT0524","2025PH0268","2025PH0267","2025PH0266"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"002","id":"THES404282"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Dress fabric","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Great Britain","id":"x32019"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1957","earliest":"1957-01-01","latest":"1957-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by the maker","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Width","value":"20","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"17.5","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"with a section 2 x 6.75 inches cut from one edge.","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"One of two samples with T.195A-1988.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Two-colour dress fabric sample of woven mohair, wool and nylon, made by Zika Ascher for Acher Ltd., Great Britain, 1957","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Mendes, Valerie. <u>Ascher. Fabric, Art, Fashion</u>. London: V&A Publications, 1987, p. 174."}],"production":"Probably developed by Ascher in conjunction with Scottish Borders textile mills (see Mendes)\n\nAttribution note: for a fairly exclusive high end ready-to-wear and couture market","productionType":{"text":"Mass produced","id":"THES48863"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.195-1988"],"accessionNumberNum":"195","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1988,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-08-08","recordCreationDate":"2007-04-20","availableToBook":false}}