{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O131532"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O131532/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2011ER7747/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2011ER7747/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2011ER7747","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2011ER7679","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O131532","accessionNumber":"T.139-1998","objectType":"Evening dress","titles":[{"title":"Fougere","type":"assigned by artist"}],"summaryDescription":"Many formal evening gowns in the 1960s used stiff, sculptural fabrics. This crisp satin  full-length evening dress was designed by Jacques Heim for Autumn 1967. The heavily beaded neckline is in the form of an inverted A, a subtle witty comment on the A-line silhouette of the dress. A long gown in plain fabric in the Museum's collection retailed at 42 guineas (see T.141-1998), but beading added further expense. This specific design, 'Fougere', retailed at 60 guineas.\r\n\r\nJacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R.L.Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes went to high-end British boutiques, expensive department stores and 'madam shops' (small independent dress shops that catered to a local affluent customer base). This design had a wholesale price of 36 guineas.","physicalDescription":"Full length evening sleeveless dress in pink silk satin grosgrain gabardine, trapeze shape, and with a deep inverted-A neckline edged with wide beaded bands and crossing band of beading, front and back. Cream lining. Back metal zipper.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Heim, Jacques","id":"A5765"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"R. L. Salmon Ltd","id":"A18693"},"association":{"text":"maker","id":"x40240"},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"grosgrain","id":"x32508"},{"text":"beads","id":"x32809"},{"text":"pearls (imitation)","id":"x30523"},{"text":"sequins","id":"x30374"},{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"},{"text":"metal","id":"AAT10900"},{"text":"gabardine","id":"x32832"}],"techniques":[{"text":"beaded","id":"AAT235440"},{"text":"lined","id":"AAT162124"},{"text":"satin","id":"x37324"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk satin grosgrain gabardine with beading, lined, metal","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Evening wear","id":"THES48999"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2011ER7747","2011ER7679"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"010","id":"THES307703"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Evening dress","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"London","id":"x28980"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":"garment"},{"place":{"text":"France","id":"x28849"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":"materials, probably"}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1967","earliest":"1967-01-01","latest":"1967-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Mrs Naomi Robins.","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"148","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"shoulder to hem","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'JACQUES HEIM / PARIS LONDON'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Label."},{"content":"'MADE IN LONDON'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Sideways along edge of label."}],"objectHistory":"This is one of a group of Heim garments donated in 1998 along with design books and fabric swatches, some of which directly relate to the garments.\r\n\r\nThey were donated by the daughter of the owners of R.L. Salmon Ltd. This was a London dress manufacturer who acquired exclusive rights to make and sell the couturier Jacques Heim's designs in London from 1957. In most instances, R.L. Salmon Ltd used the French fabrics that Heim recommended, and Heim always approved the end product.\r\n\r\nThe fabrics for this particular design are in the design book dated Autumn 1967, attached to the sketch for \"Fougere\", number 3239. A price list also exists; this dress was available at a wholesale price of 36 guineas, 10 shillings, with tax of 3 guineas, 1 shilling, and suggested retail of 60 guineas","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Full length evening dress 'Fougere' in silk satin grosgrain gabardine, designed by Jacques Heim, made by R.L. Salmon Ltd, London, 1967","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"Autumn 1967\n\nAttribution note: From the Autumn 1967 collection","productionType":{"text":"Model","id":"THES48867"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.139-1998"],"accessionNumberNum":"139","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1998,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"design number","id":"THES56779"},"number":"3239"}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-06-03","recordCreationDate":"2007-02-09","availableToBook":true}}