{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O131526"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O131526/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2011ER7666/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2011ER7666/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2011ER7666","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2011ER7679","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O131526","accessionNumber":"T.141-1998","objectType":"Evening dress","titles":[{"title":"Tessa","type":"assigned by artist"}],"summaryDescription":"Long, draped Grecian evening gowns were popular in the 1960s. This Jacques Heim dress, from Autumn 1967, relies on heavy, pleated crêpe for its impact. The neckline is crossed over and there is a bow at the nape of the neck. Despite its simplicity, the expensive fabric, quality finish, and couturier name meant a high price-tag of 42 guineas. Beaded evening dresses, such as a dress called 'Fougere' in the Museum's collection (see T.139-1998), cost even more.\r\n\r\nJacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R.L.Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes went to high-end British boutiques, expensive department stores and 'madam shops' (small independent dress shops that catered to a local affluent customer base). This particular design, 'Tessa', had a wholesale price of 25 guineas (£26.25), with £2.13 tax.","physicalDescription":"Full length evening sleeveless dress made of the palest off-beige cream crêpe. Cross over drapery at the neckline and bow at the back of the neck. Back zipper. Original hang tag.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Heim, Jacques","id":"A2194"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"R. L. Salmon Ltd","id":"A18693"},"association":{"text":"maker","id":"x40240"},"note":""},{"name":{"text":"Staron","id":"A20196"},"association":{"text":"manufacturer","id":"x33306"},"note":"textile"}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"crêpe","id":"AAT183741"}],"techniques":[],"materialsAndTechniques":"Crêpe","categories":[{"text":"Evening wear","id":"THES48999"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2011ER7666","2011ER7679"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"010","id":"THES307703"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Evening dress","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"London","id":"x28980"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":"garment"}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1967","earliest":"1967-01-01","latest":"1967-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Mrs Naomi Robins.","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"161","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"shoulder to hem","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'JACQUES HEIM / PARIS LONDON'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Label."},{"content":"'MADE IN LONDON'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Sideways along edge of label."},{"content":"'JACQUES HEIM / PARIS LONDON / STYLE ...<i>TESSA</i>... / NO ...<i>3253</i>... / COLOUR ...<i>Parchment Col 9</i>... / QUAL. ...<i>St 7058 Crepe</i>... / SIZE ...<i>12 Model</i>...'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Hang tag on dress at neck."}],"objectHistory":"This is one of a group of Heim garments donated in 1998 along with design books and fabric swatches, some of which directly relate to the garments.\r\n\r\nThey were donated by the daughter of the owners of R.L. Salmon Ltd. This was a London dress manufacturer who acquired exclusive rights to make and sell the couturier Jacques Heim's designs in London from 1957. In most instances, R.L. Salmon Ltd used the French fabrics that Heim recommended, and Heim always approved the end product.\r\n\r\nThe fabrics for this particular design are in the design book dated Autumn 1967, attached to the sketch for \"Tessa\", number 3253. A price list also exists; this dress was available at a wholesale price of 25 guineas, with tax of 2.13, and suggested retail of 41 and a half guineas. The price list identifies the fabric as being made by Staron.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Full length evening sleeveless dress 'Tessa' made of crêpe, designed by Jacques Heim, made by R.L. Salmon Ltd., London, 1967","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"Autumn 1967\n\nAttribution note: From the Autumn 1967 collection","productionType":{"text":"Model","id":"THES48867"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.141-1998"],"accessionNumberNum":"141","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1998,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"design number","id":"THES56779"},"number":"3253"}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-06-03","recordCreationDate":"2007-02-09","availableToBook":true}}