{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O131520"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O131520/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2012FN2923/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2012FN2923/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2012FN2923","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London/Jacques Heim","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2011ER7746","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London/Jacques Heim","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2011ER7745","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London/Jacques Heim","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O131520","accessionNumber":"T.135:1, 2-1998","objectType":"Ensemble","titles":[{"title":"Aubepine","type":"assigned by artist"}],"summaryDescription":"This ensemble from Jacques Heim's Spring 1967 collection is called 'Aubepine'. The straight-cut dress in heavy white lace is lined in blue chiffon and silk. The blue silk high-waisted coat is sleeveless and has a cutaway front to show the lace dress. A young woman attending a society wedding might have worn a formal day outfit like this. It was worn with a dramatic blue rose hat also in the Museum's collection (see T.133:1 to 3-1998).\r\n\r\nJacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R.L.Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes went to high-end British boutiques, expensive department stores and 'madam shops' (small independent dress shops that catered to a local affluent customer base).","physicalDescription":"Short silk chiffon dress with white lace, and high waisted sleeveless coat.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Heim, Jacques","id":"A5765"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"R. L. Salmon Ltd","id":"A18693"},"association":{"text":"maker","id":"x40240"},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"},{"text":"chiffon","id":"AAT249449"},{"text":"metal","id":"AAT10900"}],"techniques":[{"text":"lace making","id":"AAT53651"},{"text":"lined","id":"AAT162124"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk chiffon and lace, lined with silk, metal","categories":[{"text":"Day wear","id":"THES49000"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Formal wear","id":"THES48950"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Europeana Fashion Project","id":"THES265804"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2012FN2923","2011ER7746","2011ER7745"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"010","id":"THES307703"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"010","id":"THES307703"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Dress","id":""}],[{"text":"Coat","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"London","id":"x28980"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":"garment"},{"place":{"text":"France","id":"x28849"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":"materials, probably"}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1967","earliest":"1967-01-01","latest":"1967-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Mrs Naomi Robins.","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"99","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"shoulder to hem","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Dress and coat both same length","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'JACQUES HEIM / PARIS LONDON'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Label in neck of garments"},{"content":"'MADE IN LONDON'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Sideways along edge of label in garments"}],"objectHistory":"This is one of a group of Heim garments donated in 1998 along with design books and fabric swatches, some of which directly relate to the garments.\r\n\r\nThey were donated by the daughter of the owners of R.L. Salmon Ltd. This was a London dress manufacturer who acquired exclusive rights to make and sell the couturier Jacques Heim's designs in London from 1957. In most instances, R.L. Salmon Ltd used the French fabrics that Heim recommended, and Heim always approved the end product.\r\n\r\nThis particular design is in the design book dated Spring 1967, ID'd as model number 3, \"Aubepine\", number 3198.\r\n\r\nThere is also a hat by Rose Vernier in the collection which accompanies this ensemble (T.133:1-1998).","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Short silk chiffon dress 'Aubepine' with lace and high waisted sleeveless coat, designed by Jacques Heim, made by R.L. Salmon Ltd, London, 1967","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"Spring 1967\n\nAttribution note: From the Spring 1967 collection\nReason For Production: Retail","productionType":{"text":"Model","id":"THES48867"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.135:1-1998","T.135:2-1998"],"accessionNumberNum":"135","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1998,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"design number","id":"THES56779"},"number":"3198"},{"type":{"text":"Model number","id":"THES52264"},"number":"3"}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE","Dress","Coat"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-06-03","recordCreationDate":"2007-02-09","availableToBook":true}}