{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O131512"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O131512/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2011ER7673/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2011ER7673/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2011ER7673","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2011ER7744","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2011ER7674","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2011ER7672","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2012FN2920","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O131512","accessionNumber":"T.145-1998","objectType":"Cocktail dress","titles":[{"title":"Lilas","type":"assigned by artist"}],"summaryDescription":"This dress, designed by Jacques Heim for Spring 1967, shows how daring youth styles were made acceptable for more conservative women. A sheer chiffon caftan in a bold painterly print is worn over a sleeveless silk minidress in the same print. Heim knew that the women who bought his designs would not wear very short miniskirts or sheer caftans over bare flesh. Such looks were for avant-garde young people and their boutiques on King's Road and Carnaby Street.\r\n\r\nJacques Heim launched his couture business in the 1920s. In the 1940s he was one of the first couturiers to sell ready-to-wear clothing in boutiques. In 1957, Heim struck a deal with the London manufacturer R.L.Salmon Ltd. They bought the exclusive rights to reproduce Jacques Heim's Paris collections for a British audience. Twice a year, the couture house sent them sketches and materials for Spring or Autumn collections. The final results were approved by Heim before the clothes were sold by high-end British boutiques, expensive department stores and 'madam shops' (small independent dress shops that catered to a local affluent customer base).","physicalDescription":"Silk chiffon caftan mini-length and over trapeze dress in silk satin. Both layers are printed with swirling painterly print in brown, pink, orange, yellow, and black on a white ground. Ruffle around the hem and at the wrist openings. Back metal zipper in satin underdress.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Heim, Jacques","id":"A5765"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"R. L. Salmon Ltd","id":"A18693"},"association":{"text":"maker","id":"x40240"},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"chiffon","id":"AAT249449"},{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"},{"text":"metal","id":"AAT10900"}],"techniques":[{"text":"printed","id":"AAT53319"},{"text":"satin","id":"x37324"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Printed silk satin overlaid with silk chiffon, and metal","categories":[{"text":"Evening wear","id":"THES48999"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2011ER7673","2011ER7744","2011ER7674","2011ER7672","2012FN2920"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"010","id":"THES307703"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Dress","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"London","id":"x28980"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":"garment"},{"place":{"text":"France","id":"x28849"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":"materials, probably"}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1967","earliest":"1967-01-01","latest":"1967-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Mrs Naomi Robins.","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"93","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"shoulder to hem","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'JACQUES HEIM / PARIS LONDON'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Label in neck"},{"content":"'MADE IN LONDON'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Sideways along edge of label."}],"objectHistory":"This is one of a group of Heim garments donated in 1998 along with design books and fabric swatches, some of which directly relate to the garments.\r\n\r\nThey were donated by the daughter of the owners of R.L. Salmon Ltd. This was a London dress manufacturer who acquired exclusive rights to make and sell the couturier Jacques Heim's designs in London from 1957. In most instances, R.L. Salmon Ltd used the French fabrics that Heim recommended, and Heim always approved the end product.\r\n\r\nThis particular design is in the design book dated Spring 1967, ID'd as model number 49, \"Lilas\", number 3189.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Silk chiffon caftan mini-length and over trapeze dress 'Lilas' in silk satin, designed by Jacques Heim, made by R.L. Salmon Ltd., London, 1967","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"Spring 1967\n\nAttribution note: From the Spring 1967 collection\nReason For Production: Retail","productionType":{"text":"Model","id":"THES48867"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.145-1998"],"accessionNumberNum":"145","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1998,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"design number","id":"THES56779"},"number":"3189"},{"type":{"text":"Model number","id":"THES52264"},"number":"49"}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-06-03","recordCreationDate":"2007-02-08","availableToBook":true}}