{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O1261542"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1261542/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2015HP1792/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2015HP1792/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2015HP1792","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2015HP1793","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2015HP1800","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2015HP1801","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2015HP1802","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O1261542","accessionNumber":"T.3-2013","objectType":"Raincoat","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"Mary Quant began her business in 1955 when she opened her first boutique, Bazaar, in London's King's Road. Bazaar catered for a new generation of young, newly-affluent adults who had time to enjoy shopping, it inspired many imitations in 'Swinging London'.\n\nThis 'rainsmock' was purchased by the donor from Bazaar in about 1964. It is a rare survival, a shorter version of the full-length PVC raincoat displayed by Quant in Paris in 1963 as part of her 'Wet Collection'. Quant experimented after Paris with ways to mass-produce the PVC garments. However, she found that the plastic either stuck to the foot of the sewing machine, or was perforated by the needle and thus easily torn. Nevertheless, despite initial problems with production, the PVC 'wet look' became one of Quant's signature styles, its bright colours and shiny texture a symbol of 1960s London's urban renewal, vibrant youth culture and 'Pop Art' stylings. Cynthia Lennon was photographed with John Lennon at London airport in February 1964, wearing an identical 'rainsmock' to this one.\n","physicalDescription":"Short raincoat of beige PVC, lined with woven cotton in a black and white check. It has a turn-down 'Christopher Robin' collar, and fastens at the back with six copper alloy buttons. There is a Seamed yoke across the chest with a bust dart at each side, at the hips are two rectangular pockets. The long sleeves fasten with a strap held by a single button.\r\n","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Quant, Mary","id":"A2349"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"PVC","id":"AAT14513"},{"text":"cotton (textile)","id":"AAT14067"}],"techniques":[{"text":"machine stitching","id":"x29587"},{"text":"weaving","id":"AAT53642"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Machine-stitched PVC, woven cotton, copper alloy buttons","categories":[{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Plastic","id":"THES49026"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2015HP1792","2015HP1793","2015HP1800","2015HP1801","2015HP1802"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"016","id":"THES305855"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"raincoat","id":"AAT209850"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Great Britain","id":"x32019"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1964-1965","earliest":"1964-01-01","latest":"1965-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":"First designed in 1963"}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Dinny Pagan","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"74","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"20/05/2013","earliest":"2013-05-20","latest":"2013-05-20"},"part":"neck to hem","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Purchased by the donor from Mary Quant's shop on the King's Road, Chelsea in 1964-1965. She recalled it was often assumed that she was wearing it backwards because of the button-fastenings on its reverse.\r\n\r\nGiven to the V&A in 2013 (Registered File no. 2013/162).\r\n","historicalContext":"The design of this 'rainsmock' dates from 1963, the year Mary Quant showed <i>The Wet Collection</i> in Paris, the result of Quant's experiments with PVC. In her autobiography <i>Quant by Quant</i> (1966, p.120) the designer states that it took around two years of manufacturing trials following this show to successfully bond the seams of PVC garments. The samples made for the catwalk show were not suitable for mass-production, Quant realising fairly quickly that the PVC had to be cotton-backed. She was later contacted by the Alligator Company, an established manufacturer of rainwear, who advised her how to best join the PVC. Despite its widely-recognised importance, production issues meant that the <i>Wet Collection</i> was one of Quant's least financially successful collections. It is estimated that she managed to deliver only 15-20% of orders made for her PVC garments. The Museum of London has in its collection a reproduction coat from the <i>Wet Collection</i>, made by Quant for a 1973 retrospective of her work.\n\nCynthia Lennon was photographed at Heathrow on 7th February 1964 wearing an identical rainsmock to this one. John Lennon was a friend and frequent customer of Quant's, it was from her shop that he purchased the leather cap that became his trademark in the the early days of the Beatles' success.\n","briefDescription":"Short raincoat or smock, beige PVC, designed by Mary Quant (unlabelled) ca.1964","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"A similar red version of this rain smock is featured on the cover of Vogue, October 1963.\r\nModelled by Tania Mallett, photograph by Brian Duffy\r\n[V&A: NCOL.447-2018]\r\n"}],"production":"After initial production difficulties, Quant was contacted by the Alligator Company, an established manufacturer of rainwear, who advised her how best to join PVC garments' seams. They recommended using a welded seam, rather than stitched, to avoid perforating the fabric.","productionType":{"text":"Ready to wear","id":"THES48866"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"[Mary Quant exhibition, 2019]\r\n\r\n‘CHRISTOPHER ROBIN’\r\n1963\r\nWorn by Dinny Pagan\r\n\r\nThe ‘Wet Collection’ capitalised on the 1960s’ love affair with modern materials and is a key example of Quant’s ability to attract widespread publicity. Fashion editors in London, Paris, New York and Australia promoted her experimental PVC designs such as this ‘Christopher Robin’ rain smock. Vogue featured a similar design in red on its October 1963 cover, while Quant credited the success of the ‘Wet Collection’ with winning the Sunday Times International Fashion award that same month.\r\n\r\nRain smock\r\nPVC\r\nLabel removed\r\nMade in London\r\nGiven by Dinny Pagan\r\nV&A: T.3-2013","date":{"text":"30/02/2020","earliest":"2020-02-29","latest":"2020-02-29"}},{"text":"<u>Fashion gallery [2015]</u>\n\n<b>Raincoat\r\nMary Quant (born 1934)\r\nAbout 1963</b>\n\r\nIn 1963 Mary Quant made history when she presented a collection of PVC clothing in Paris. It had taken two years of experimentation to successfully bond the seams of the plastic garments. This ‘rainsmock’, a shorter version of a long coat from the ‘Wet Collection’, was highly modern. It fused innovative, up-to-date materials with Quant’s contemporary vision.\n\r\nPVC and cotton\r\nGiven by Dinny Pagan\r\nMuseum no. T.3-2013\n","date":{"text":"04/2015-10/2015","earliest":"2015-04-01","latest":"2015-10-31"}}],"partNumbers":["T.3-2013"],"accessionNumberNum":"3","accessionNumberPrefix":"t","accessionYear":2013,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-08-30","recordCreationDate":"2013-03-07","availableToBook":false}}