{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O1244844"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1244844/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2014HC9322/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2014HC9322/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2014HC9322","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2014HC9323","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2014HC9324","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2014HC3467","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2014HC3466","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2014HB3573","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2014HB3574","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O1244844/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O1244844","accessionNumber":"T.31-2012","objectType":"Night gown","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"The loosely cut style of this man's informal robe is based on that of the Japanese kimono. Robes like this became popular in Europe from the mid-17th  century, brought back by members of the East India Company, and by the 1670s European tailors were making them. The exact geographic and cultural source of the style was not generally well known in England, where they were called 'Indian gowns' when made of any non-European fabric, for example, Indian cottons, Chinese or Indian silks. \r\n\r\nThis nightgown is a striking and rare example, in very good condition for its age, made  from blue silk damask woven in China for import into Europe. Such silks were  primarily intended for furnishing, and appear in merchants' records as 'bed  damasks'; the length of their pattern repeat was displayed to best advantage in  the long drop of bed curtains. A silk damask of closely similar design to this was used to furnish a room in the summer palace of  Prince Eugene of Savoy, Schlosshof, in 1725 (now in MAK in Vienna).","physicalDescription":"The night gown is made up using a blue silk damask with a large repeating design of a Chinese incense burner among acanthus-like foliage. It is lined with blue silk taffeta. It is of simple T-shape construction with no fastenings. There are no shoulder seams, so the design of the silk is in the correct orientation at the back, but appears upside down as it comes over the shoulders and down the front.\n\nThe loom width of the damask is 71 cm (28 inches). This width is consistent with it having been woven on a Chinese rather than European loom, as the design suggests.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Unknown","id":"A1848"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"}],"techniques":[{"text":"damask weaving","id":"x36800"},{"text":"hand sewing","id":"AAT257459"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk; hand woven in a damask weave, hand-sewn","categories":[{"text":"Europeana Fashion Project","id":"THES265804"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2014HC9322","2014HC9323","2014HC9324","2014HC3467","2014HC3466","2014HB3573","2014HB3574"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"5","id":"THES49787"},"free":"","case":"CA2","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Night gown","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"China","id":"x29398"},"association":{"text":"woven","id":"AAT53642"},"note":"The silk damask was woven in China for export to Europe."},{"place":{"text":"Europe","id":"x28842"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":"The night gown was made up in Europe, possibly in Britain or the Netherlands."}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1650-1700","earliest":"1650-01-01","latest":"1700-12-31"},"association":{"text":"weaving","id":"AAT53642"},"note":"The design of the silk corresponds to the early Qing dynasty."},{"date":{"text":"1720-50","earliest":"1720-01-01","latest":"1750-12-31"},"association":{"text":"sewing","id":"AAT53658"},"note":"The night gown "}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"153","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"29/03/2012","earliest":"2012-03-29","latest":"2012-03-29"},"part":"nape of neck to hem at centre back","note":""},{"dimension":"width","value":"97","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"29/03/2012","earliest":"2012-03-29","latest":"2012-03-29"},"part":"centre neck to sleeve end with cuff unfolded","note":""},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"142","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"29/03/2012","earliest":"2012-03-29","latest":"2012-03-29"},"part":"chest under arms ","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"The loosely cut style of the night gown is based on that of the Dutch <i>japonse rock,</i> the imported Japanese kosode (kimono) or Dutch version of it.","briefDescription":"A man's night gown, 1720-50, Dutch or British; of Chinese blue silk damask, 1650-1700","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"North, Susan. (2020). Indian Gowns and Banyans — New Evidence and Perspectives. <i>Costume,</i>54 (1). pp. 30-55.\nDOI: 10.3366/cost.2020.0142 \nL.E. Miller, 'In Fashion: Two Banyans and a Suit', <i>Luxury. History, Culture, Consumption</i>, Vol. 4:2-3 (July-November 2017), pp. 159-165. A new acquisition for the Europe 1600-1815 Galleries (opened in 2015). Here the object is mistakenly called a banyan rather than a nightgown.\nL.E.Miller, 'Male Adornment', <i>The Arts of Living. Europe 1600-1815, </i>eds. E. Miller and H. Young. London: V&amp;A Publishing, 2015, pp. 184-8. Mistakenly called a banyan in the text, providing an example of the type of garment worn at home by M. Jourdain in Molière's <i>Le Bourgeois Gentilhomme</i> (1670)."},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":""},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":""},{"reference":{"text":"Miller, Lesley Ellis, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente, with Claire Allen-Johnstone, eds. <u>Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion</u>. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, 2021. ISBN 978-0-500-48065-6.","id":"AUTH389403"},"details":"This object features in the publication Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion (2021)","free":""},{"reference":{"text":"Miller, Lesley Ellis, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente, with Claire Allen-Johnstone, eds. <u>Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion</u>. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, 2021. ISBN 978-0-500-48065-6.","id":"AUTH389403"},"details":"pp.116-117","free":""}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"Formal dress for men, comprising a coat, waistcoat and breeches, was close-fitting, heavy and restrictive in cut. At home, when with family or receiving friends or business associates, wealthy men often preferred a loose-fitting, full-length gown, called a robe de chambre in France. The style derives from the Japanese kimono and was often made in imported textiles.","date":{"text":"01/2020","earliest":"2020-01-01","latest":"2020-01-31"}},{"text":"Formal dress for men, comprising a coat, waistcoat and breeches, was close-fitting, heavy and restrictive in cut. At home, when with family or receiving friends or business associates, wealthy men often preferred to wear a loose-fitting, full-length dressing gown, or banyan. The style derives from the Japanese kimono, but the word itself originated in the Indian word for a merchant or trader – banya.","date":{"text":"12/2015-12/2019","earliest":"2015-12-01","latest":"2019-12-31"}}],"partNumbers":["T.31-2012"],"accessionNumberNum":"31","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":2012,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":["2019LN1550","2019LT7890"],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-16","recordCreationDate":"2012-03-19","availableToBook":false}}