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The front and back of the robe indicate that the textile was consciously woven to be tailored later as a garment.  \r\n\r\nThe various symbols used indicate that this textile might have been associated with a birthday. The Chinese word for deer is ‘lu’, and the deer becomes a symbol of rank and remuneration which are also signified by ‘lu’. The peony motif signifies wealth and distinction, while the crane and the longevity (‘shou’) characters are emblems of good wishes for a long life. This robe is the earliest datable whole garment in the V&A's collection of Chinese textiles.","physicalDescription":"A brightly coloured kesi silk woven robe decorated with paired deer, longevity characters and meandering peony flowers. \r\nAt least 22 colours have been identified in the weave of the textile used to tailor the robe, in addition to gold.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Unknown","id":"A1848"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"},{"text":"metal thread","id":"x30421"}],"techniques":[{"text":"tapestry","id":"AAT61981"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk tapestry (<i>kesi</i>)","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Men's clothes","id":"THES49043"},{"text":"Tapestry","id":"THES48887"}],"styles":[{"text":"Ming","id":"AAT18438"},{"text":"Qing","id":"AAT18478"}],"collectionCode":{"text":"EAS","id":"THES48596"},"images":["2008BV5677","2008BV5679","2008BV5675","2008BV5672","2008BV5670","2008BV5667","2008BV5665","2008BV5662","2008BV5660","2008BV5657","2008BV5655","2008BV5653","2008BV5650","2008BV5648","2006BE6568","2008BV5646","2008BV5613","2023NJ6072","2023NJ6073","2023NJ6074","2023NJ6075","2023NJ6076","2023NJ6077","2023NJ6078","2023NJ6079","2023NJ6080","2023NJ6081","2023NJ6082","2023NJ6083","2023NJ6084","2023NJ6085","2023NJ6086","2023NJ6087","2023NJ6088","2023NJ6089","2023NJ6090","2023NJ6091","2023NJ6092","2023NJ6093","2023NJ6094","2023NJ6095","2023NJ6096","2023NJ6097","2023NJ6098","2023NJ6099","2023NJ6100","2023NJ6101","2023NJ6102","2023NJ6103","2023NJ6104","2023NJ6105","2023NJ6106","2023NJ6107","2023NJ6108","2023NJ6109","2023NJ6110"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"014","id":"THES313104"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"014","id":"THES313104"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Coat","id":""}],[{"text":"Fragments","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"China","id":"x29398"},"association":{"text":"woven","id":"AAT53642"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"ca. 1600","earliest":"1595-01-01","latest":"1604-12-31"},"association":{"text":"woven","id":"AAT53642"},"note":""},{"date":{"text":"post 1600","earliest":"1601-01-01","latest":null},"association":{"text":"altered","id":"AAT105442"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Purchased with a grant donated by Lady Garner","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"113","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"180","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Registered File number 1985/1533.\r\n'taken apart for conservation in the 1980s' (Wilson, Chinese Textiles, p. 76)","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Robe, tapestry-weave silk (<i>kesi</i>) with gold thread, China, about 1600","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Wilson, Verity, <u>Chinese Textiles</u>, London: V&A Publications, 2005, pp. 77 & 104, fig. 85 & 116"},{"reference":{"text":"Miller, Lesley Ellis, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente, with Claire Allen-Johnstone, eds. <u>Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion</u>. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, 2021. ISBN 978-0-500-48065-6.","id":"AUTH389403"},"details":"This object features in the publication Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion (2021)","free":""}],"production":"The material was woven circa 1600, and tailored or altered later.","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"Long life characters are included in the design of the woven textile.","contentPlaces":[{"text":"China","id":"x29398"}],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"deer","id":"x29392"},{"text":"peonies","id":"x35844"},{"text":"cranes","id":"x34973"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["FE.41:1-1985","FE.41:2-1985"],"accessionNumberNum":"41","accessionNumberPrefix":"FE","accessionYear":1985,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE","Coat","Fragments"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-01-01","recordCreationDate":"2006-02-16","availableToBook":false}}