{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O120102"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O120102/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2020MU3730/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2020MU3730/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2020MU3730","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2020MU3717","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2020MU3734","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AG4330","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O120102/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O120102","accessionNumber":"T.70 to C-1954","objectType":"Walking dress and jackets","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"During the 1880s and 90s jackets and coats based on masculine styles became a popular feature in the woman's wardrobe. Frock coats, Ulsters, Chesterfields, Newmarket and Eton jackets appeared on the pages of fashion magazines, metamorphosised into close-fitting and narrow-waisted ladies' garments.  The glimpse of a crisp white shirt collar and cravat underneath added the finishing touch to this manly look. This style was so admired that one tailoring manual reported: 'A lady despises, so far as tailor-made garments are concerned, any name or designation which borders on the feminine. The more like men's garments in appearance, they are made, the more manlike the names we give their garments, the better they like it.'\n\nThe double-breasted jacket to this walking ensemble was known as the double-breasted Reefer and was based on the loose-fitting man's garment of the same name. It was very popular for spring wear when women cast off their heavy overcoats in preference for warm jackets. Distinguishing features included wide lapels with double or even triple-stitched edges, up to six large buttons (three on each side) and flapped pockets on the hips. Discreet feminine flourishes were permitted such as the leaf-shaped revers, glossy braid snaking down the foreparts and the full sleeves pinched into darts at the top.\n\nThe ensemble includes an alternative cropped jacket which would have been worn open so that the striped silk lining could be glimpsed, over a smart blouse; and a dress bodice which, when worn with the skirt, would have given the impression of a complete dress rather than a skirt and jacket or coat.","physicalDescription":"Woman's walking suit consisting of a skirt with three alternative jacket bodices.\n\r\n1. Tailored bodice jacket of dark mushroom-coloured woollen cloth. Double-breasted reefer made of boxcloth trimmed with applied silk Russia braid. Tightly moulded at the waistline with vertical machine-made tucks which are freed to fall over the bust and are caught up again at the shoulder. Down the centre front and back is an insertion of horizontal machine-made tucks. At the front two pairs of cross-over bands fasten over this, each with an ornamental buckle. Stand up collar and cuffs are edged with brown silk. The bodice is lined with printed cotton and is boned.\n\r\n2. Gored woollen skirt opening at the side front with fullness falling from the box pleat at the back into a full hemline, slightly larger at the back. Lined with glazed cotton and trimmed with fringe to match, and with five rows of machine stitching at the hemline.\r\n\n3. Bolero type jacket with long tight sleeves and tightly fitting bodice. Wide-shaped collar. The sleeves, collar and shaped bottom of the bolero are trimmed with five rows of machine stitching. Lined with white printed cotton and boned.\n\n4. Double-breasted and long sleeved jacket. Fastens with six pearl buttons. Waisted with two small flap pockets at the hips and falls to just below hip length. Down the side fronts and round the collar is a rich application of braid. Darts, seams and edgings are outlined in machine stitching. Each seam inside the jacket is carefully bound.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Unknown","id":"A1848"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"wool","id":"x40131"},{"text":"Russia braid","id":"x33030"},{"text":"cotton (textile)","id":"AAT14067"}],"techniques":[{"text":"sewing","id":"AAT53658"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Wool box cloth, trimmed with applied silk braid, edged with silk, lined with cotton, boned, pearl","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2020MU3730","2020MU3717","2020MU3734","2006AG4330"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"007","id":"THES307621"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"007","id":"THES307621"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"007","id":"THES307621"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"007","id":"THES307621"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Jacket","id":""}],[{"text":"Skirt","id":""}],[{"text":"Jacket","id":""}],[{"text":"Jacket","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Great Britain","id":"x32019"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1892-1897","earliest":"1892-01-01","latest":"1897-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Mrs Pickthorn","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"444.5","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"T.70-1954","note":""},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"533.4","unit":"mm","qualifier":"waist","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"T.70-1954","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"977.9","unit":"mm","qualifier":"centre back, including train","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"T.70A-1954","note":""},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"584.2","unit":"mm","qualifier":"waist","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"T.70A-1954","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"393.7","unit":"mm","qualifier":"centre back","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"T.70B-1954","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"558.8","unit":"mm","qualifier":"centre back","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"T.70C-1954","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Woman's walking suit consisting of three alternative jacket bodices and skirt made of wool, made in Great Britain, 1892-1897","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.70-1954","T.70A-1954","T.70B-1954","T.70C-1954"],"accessionNumberNum":"70","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1954,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE","Jacket [1]","Skirt","Jacket [2]","Jacket [3]"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-10-10","recordCreationDate":"2005-12-29","availableToBook":false}}