{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O117679"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O117679/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2007BM6170/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2007BM6170/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2007BM6170","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O117679","accessionNumber":"T.225&A-1962","objectType":"Toile","titles":[{"title":"La Ligne H","type":"named collection"}],"summaryDescription":"The traditional focus of couture was the creation of high fashion garments for private clients. However, sales to department stores and wholesalers became increasingly important after the war. Buyers purchased fabric toiles such as this, paper patterns, or even original models which they copied. \r\n\r\nChristian Dior (1905-57) was a shrewd businessman and one of the first couturiers to  establish international licensing and reproduction contracts with other companies.","physicalDescription":"Calico skirt in toile and its packaging. \r\n\r\nThe skirt is straight cut with a pleat at the centre back hem. The waist band is hollowed out and fastens at either side with two hooks and eyes. There seems to be no provision for closing the plaquets.  There are two loops for hanging the garment up at the centre front and back. To the waist, at the centre front, is stitched a tape lapel on which is written a '50680 Messrs. Gouband toile jupe ajax'. With an envelope in white thick paper printed with a label of Christian Dior.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Christian Dior","id":"A1790"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"calico","id":"AAT132872"},{"text":"paper","id":"x30308"}],"techniques":[{"text":"weaving","id":"AAT53642"},{"text":"sewing","id":"AAT53658"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Calico, printed paper","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2007BM6170"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"008","id":"THES307894"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"008","id":"THES307894"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Packaging","id":""}],[{"text":"Toile","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Paris","id":"x29068"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1954","earliest":"1954-01-01","latest":"1954-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by B. Neville","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"810","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"skirt"},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"560","unit":"","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"Waist"},{"dimension":"Height","value":"311","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"Packaging"},{"dimension":"Width","value":"375","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"Packaging"}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Mr Neville (donor) said that this was bought by a firm of wholesalers for which he worked in 1954, and was typical of the fashions of that year.\r\n\r\n1954 was the year of Dior's H-Line, also known as 'the runner bean' line for its straight, flat silhouette.  This skirt, although not couture, reflects that same linear cut.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Calico skirt in toile 'La Ligne H' and its packaging, Christian Dior, Paris, 1954","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"Attribution note: Pattern for licensed copying","productionType":{"text":"Prototype","id":"THES48871"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"[C panel – 4i]\r\nREADY-TO-WEAR \r\n\r\nThe traditional focus of couture was the creation of high fashion garments for private clients. However, sales to department stores and wholesalers became increasingly important after the war. Buyers purchased fabric toiles and paper patterns, or even original models. These designs could only be copied a limited number of times. \r\n\r\nSome designers created ready-to-wear collections specifically for the export market, using the mass-production and sizing methods developed in the USA. By 1948, a year after launching his house, Dior opened on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. ‘The dresses will designed with one eye on US tastes and the other on the limitations of machine production,’ wrote Time magazine on 16 August 1948. [110 words]\r\n\r\n\r\n[group label]\r\nToiles\r\n\r\nCanvas toiles were created as prototypes for original designs before they were made up in expensive fabrics. They were also made for the sale of designs to manufacturers.\r\n\r\n1. Contract for reproduction rights for a model to be provided in fabric or as a canvas pattern\r\nChambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne\r\nAugust 1954\r\nV&A: Archive of Art and Design\r\n\r\n2. Calico toile with label - pattern for a fur collar\r\nChristian Dior (1905-57)\r\n1950s\r\nV&A: unregistered collection\r\n\r\n3. Calico toile with label - pattern for a fur bolero jacket\r\nChristian Dior (1905-57)\r\n1950s\r\nV&A: unregistered collection\r\n\r\n4. Calico toile with packaging - pattern for a skirt\r\nChristian Dior (1905-57)\r\n1954\r\nGiven by B. Neville\r\nV&A: T.225-1962\r\n\r\n5. Calico toile with pencil markings - pattern for a mink stole\r\n1950s\r\nV&A: unregistered collection","date":{"text":"22/09/2007","earliest":"2007-09-22","latest":"2007-09-22"}}],"partNumbers":["T.225A-1962","T.225-1962"],"accessionNumberNum":"225","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1962,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE","Packaging","Toile"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-04-10","recordCreationDate":"2005-10-17","availableToBook":true}}