{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O1140062"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1140062/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2010EC5099/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2010EC5099/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2010EC5099","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O1140062/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O1140062","accessionNumber":"E.2:824-1986","objectType":"Design","titles":[{"title":"Jewellery Design","type":"generic title"}],"summaryDescription":"This design comes from 'The Brogden Album', the album contained 1,593 designs for jewellery and goldsmith's work, mainly in colour and dating between 1848 and 1884. It is a unique record of the years in which John Brogden, an internationally celebrated 'art goldsmith and jeweller worked first in partnership and then as owner-director of his own firm. This was a period of great diversity in fashionable jewellery, and the Brogden firm where noted for their skill in designing and creating a range of styles. \r\n\r\nThe firm was founded by John Brogden the elder in about 1796. From about 1824 to 1831 it was styled 'Brogden and Garland' and thereafter until 1841 'Garland and Watherston'. The younger Brogden, the son of Thomas Brogden and presumably a relative of the founder, served an apprenticeship to J.W. garland as a goldsmith and jeweller from 1834 to 1841. Following Garland's departure, the remaining partner, J.H. Watherston,  removed the firm to new premises at 16 Henrietta Street, Covent Garden and in 1848 joined forces with the younger Brogden.\n\nCharlotte Isabella Newman, also known as Mrs Philip Newman, was the first important female studio jeweller to run a workshop under her name in London. She studied at the Government School of Design at Somerset House and then at South Kensington where she was encouraged by V&amp;A founder Sir Henry Cole to design a variety of decorative objects including carpets, china and textile fabrics. In 1860, Charlotte married ecclesiastical draughtsman, Philip Harry Newman (1840–1927) who had trained at the St Martin’s and Spitalfields schools of art.\r\n\r\nFollowing her training, Newman became a designer for Brogden who soon came to realise that Newman’s status as a female designer and her unique designs (she rarely produced more than one of each design) would appeal to his élite female clientele. Newman drew inspiration from a range of historical sources and was inspired by the excavations and discoveries of Roman, Egyptian, Hellenistic and Etruscan sites, this type of jewellery was referred to as ‘archaeological revival jewellery’. Brogden and Newman exhibited at the Paris exhibitions of 1867 and 1878, and in 1878 she was awarded the Médaille d’Honneur as ‘collaboratrice’ while Brogden received the Croix de la Légion d’Honneur.","physicalDescription":"Design for an earring and a necklace.\r\nThe earring with a scallop shell above a heart-shaped pendant bearing the monogram 'M' in red above an interlocked crescent.\r\nThe necklace with a pendent incorporating a gold cross with an emerald on each side and a ruby in the centre, above a heart shaped band made out of an inscribed scroll and three gold oval shaped pendants: the left side one with a monogram of interlocked 'Ms', the right side one with an interlocked crescent and the middle pendant with the depiction of archangel St. Michael","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Newman, Charlotte Isabella","id":"A29094"},"association":{"text":"designed","id":"x28674"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"Firm of John Brogden","id":"A9309"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"watercolour","id":"x33202"},{"text":"body colour","id":"x32506"},{"text":"ink","id":"AAT15012"},{"text":"pencil","id":"x30347"},{"text":"card","id":"x30344"}],"techniques":[{"text":"drawing","id":"x32498"},{"text":"painting","id":"x30598"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Drawing in pencil, ink, watercolour and body colour on card.","categories":[{"text":"Jewellery","id":"THES48930"},{"text":"Designs","id":"THES48968"},{"text":"Woman Artist","id":"THES387590"}],"styles":[{"text":"Victorian","id":"AAT21232"},{"text":"victorian","id":"x29321"}],"collectionCode":{"text":"PDP","id":"THES48595"},"images":["2010EC5099"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"LVLD","id":"THES49658"},"free":"","case":"MD","shelf":"16","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"designs","id":"AAT102051"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"London","id":"x28980"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""},{"place":{"text":"London","id":"x28980"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1866","earliest":"1866-01-01","latest":"1866-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"18.6","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"11","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'N'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"The handwritten initial stands for Charlotte Isabella Newman and appears in the lower right-hand corner of the drawing."},{"content":"'Would the \"[Diagram]\" of No 3 be either linking from the scallop shell? I almost think so\r\n2 correspond better with the [illegible inscription] itself","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"handwritten in pencil on the upper left hand part"},{"content":"Dolanella [?]\r\nMemorial","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"handwritten in pencil on the middle left hand side"},{"content":"No2","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"handwritten in ink on the right hand side on the bottom"},{"content":"John Brogdan/ 16 Henrietta Street/ Covent Garden/ London/ Goldsmith'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"blind-stamped"}],"objectHistory":"This design was part of the display, <u>Exquisite Artistry: Jewellery Designs from the Brogden Album</u> at the Victoria and Albert Museum, 19 February - 17 November, 2019.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Earring and necklace with pendant design by Charlotte Isabella Newman","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"<u>Fine jewels and jewels for the collector</u>. London: Sotheby's, 1985, Dec. 5, lot 411."},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Taken from the display label"},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Huits, Lieske. \"At Once 'Ancient' and 'Modern': <i>The Art-Journal</i>'s Illustrated Catalogues and the Notion of Adaptation in Nineteenth-Century Historicism\", <u>Nineteenth-Century Art Worldwide</u> 21, no. 3 (Autumn 2022), https://doi.org/10.29411/ncaw.2022.21.3.2."}],"production":"Attribution note: Charlotte Isabella Newman worked for the firm of John Brogden (1864-1884). She is also known as Mrs. Philip Newman and was the most important designer to be associated with Brogden from the mid-1860s until 1884.","productionType":{"text":"Design","id":"THES48872"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"pendant","id":"AAT46002"},{"text":"earrings","id":"AAT45998"},{"text":"earring","id":"AAT45998"},{"text":"gold","id":"AAT11021"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["E.2:824-1986"],"accessionNumberNum":"2","accessionNumberPrefix":"E","accessionYear":1986,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-16","recordCreationDate":"2009-11-10","availableToBook":false}}