{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O110173"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O110173/"}},"images":null,"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O110173","accessionNumber":"T.60-1974","objectType":"Hat","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"Balenciaga was the most exclusive fashion house in Paris immediately after World War II. The Spanish-born couturier, Cristobal Balenciaga (1895-1972) had set up in business there in 1937 in partnership with the hat designer Vladzio d'Attainville. At its height, the business had four dress-making, four tailoring and two millinery workshops. \r\n\r\nHats were made bespoke to complete couture clients' outfits. The etiquette of the period dictated that hats be worn on all formal occasions, even when going out for a meal in a restaurant or to a performance at the theatre. Elaborate hats such as this example would have been worn to cocktail parties or to dinner.\r\n\r\nGloria Guinness, to whom this hat belonged, commented: 'hats must be made on your head. A ready-made hat will not be you!  While I am sitting for a dress, I sit ten minutes longer, and Monsieur Balenciaga works on a hat.'","physicalDescription":"Cap of black sheared ostrich feathers trimmed with two pompoms. Inside there is an attached comb.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Cristóbal Balenciaga","id":"A2011"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"AAT25190"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"Ostrich feather","id":"x33308"}],"techniques":[],"materialsAndTechniques":"Sheared ostrich feathers","categories":[{"text":"Hats and headwear","id":"THES48943"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Accessories","id":"THES48998"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":[],"imageResolution":"none","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"014","id":"THES306168"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Hat","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Paris","id":"x29068"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1955-1960","earliest":"1955-01-01","latest":"1960-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Mrs Loel Guinness","dimensions":[],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'BALENCIAGA, 10 Avenue George V, Paris'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Label"}],"objectHistory":"Worn and given by Mrs Loel Guinness","historicalContext":"Gloria Rubio y Alatorre, better known as Gloria Guinness (1912 - 1980) was an elegant socialite and writer of the mid 20th century.\r\n\r\nHer third husband, whom she married in 1951, was Group Capt. Thomas Loel Guinness, a Member of Parliament (died 1989) and an heir to the Guinness beer fortune. Her only child, Countess Dolores von Fürstenberg -Herdringen (born in 1936) married her stepbrother Patrick Guinness.\r\n\r\nShe was voted second 'Best Dressed Woman' in the world by Time magazine in 1962.  Jackie Kennedy was in first place.  (See <i>Time</i> magazine Jan 26 1962)","briefDescription":"Hat with ostrich feathers, designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, 1955-1960.","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"<i>Fashion : An Anthology by Cecil Beaton</i>. London : H.M.S.O., 1971","id":"AUTH354373"},"details":"284","free":""},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Time magazine, January 26 1962"},{"reference":{"text":"<i>Hommage à Balenciaga</i>. Lyon : Musée Historique des Tissus, 1985","id":"AUTH354695"},"details":"","free":""}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"Haute couture","id":"THES48861"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[{"text":"Guinness","id":"N4525"},{"text":"beaton","id":"N2787"}],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"‘Balenciaga’s hats are an integral part of his fashion,’ reported the French fashion review Jardin des modes in 1961. They ensure ‘that volumes are balanced and the silhouette is perfectly finished off.’ Fairly conventional ensembles were often paired with a striking hat which lifted the whole look and made it appear more avant-garde. The client could buy the whole ensemble or leave the hat if it was too daring. The designs for hats were as fiercely protected as those for dresses. The police commissioner stamped the official sketches of the hats to protect them from being copied.\r\n\r\nHat with black ostrich feathers \r\nCristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, 1955–60\r\nGiven by Mrs Loel Guinness\r\nV&A: T.60-1974","date":{"text":"12/05/2017","earliest":"2017-05-12","latest":"2017-05-12"}},{"text":"Hats\r\n\r\nHats were regarded as the finishing touch to an outfit. A wide choice was available, from large picture hats to tiny, feathered creations that perched on the head, secured only with a hat pin. [34 words]\r\n\r\n1. Yellow and black feathers\r\nPaulette (Paulette Marchand, 1900-84)\r\nParis\r\n1950s\r\nWorn by Mrs Opal Holt, and given by Mrs D.M. Haynes and Mrs M. Clark\r\nV&A: T.151-1982\r\n\r\n2. Horsehair hat trimmed with fabric rosebuds\r\nSimone Mirman\r\nLondon\r\n1953\r\nWorn by Doris Langley Moore\r\nV&A: T.113-1980\r\n\r\n3. Pink velvet \r\nAage Thaarup (1906-87)\r\nLondon\r\n1950s\r\nGiven by Mrs Blair Cook\r\nV&A: T.255-1985\r\n\r\n4. Black ostrich feather\r\nCristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972)\r\nParis\r\nAbout 1955\r\nGiven by Mrs Loel Guinness\r\nV&A: T.60-1974\r\n\r\n4.\tYellow straw \r\nJacques Heim (1899-1967)\r\n1950s\r\nGiven by Mrs Vivienne Lawrie\r\nV&A: T.370-1996","date":{"text":"22/09/2007","earliest":"2007-09-22","latest":"2007-09-22"}}],"partNumbers":["T.60-1974"],"accessionNumberNum":"60","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1974,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":["2019LT9363","2019LT9143"],"recordModificationDate":"2025-10-14","recordCreationDate":"2005-03-14","availableToBook":true}}