{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O109888"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O109888/"}},"images":null,"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O109888","accessionNumber":"S.4-2004","objectType":"Theatre costume","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"This costume for one of six warriors  in Leonide Massine's ballet Le Chant du rossignol (The Song of the Nightingale) was designed by Henri Matisse first produced by the Diaghilev Ballets Russes to a score by Igor Stravinsky in 1920 and reused in George Balanchine's nw version in 1925. Millicent Hodson ad Kenneth Archer have noted that Matisse based the Warrior's costumes on 'the guardian kings of Buddhist ritual who protected the cardinal points of sacred spaces'. It is likely that Matisse had seen such C8th polychrome wooden figures retrieved from cave temples in western China at the Musee Guimet in Paris. From these he 'copied their armour and dragon-mouth sleeves, wigs, beards and possibly the terracotta of their skins'. \n\nSerge Diaghilev, was famous for using painters to design productions for his ballet company, although many, like Matisse had never designed for the stage before.  \r\nMatisse's spare style and subtle use of colour proved ideal for the ballet.  Taking original Chinese sources, he has reduced the warrior style to its basic elements, using a subtle mix of brown, blue and white. Although the design originates with Matisse, the realisation lies with the costumier, often in consultation with the designer, who may, or may not have experience of fabrics, trims and making techniques.  Thus the choice of fabrics - the use of brown and white felt, gold braid and blue silk for the skirt and sleeves - may not have been suggested by the artist but by the theatrical costume maker, who would have the greater experience of what fabrics and decorative techniques would work on stage.The costumes were made in the Paris atelier of Mme Muelle, Matisse was often present overseeing their creation.\n\n","physicalDescription":"Chinese-style military tunic for a Warrior in Leonide Massine's ballet Le  Chant du rossignol  in white felt (lined with white citton) with panels of dark brown cotton velvet overlaid with gold braid lattice. It has a blue silk skirt and yoke panels on the shoulders and short blue cotton sleeves. Around the waist and across the chest are brown velvet belts decorated with inverted  brass 'L's. There is a black painted line edging the felt. Inside the costume are three coarse grey linen pads filled with straw (?) padding hips and front.\r\nThere are leather straps on the shoulders and photographs and Matisse's design suggests decorative shoulder pads. The costume was worn withknee-length blue pantaloons and boots \n\n","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Matisse, Henri Emile Benoît","id":"A6845"},"association":{"text":"costume designer","id":"AAT163428"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"},{"text":"felt","id":"AAT14107"},{"text":"velvet","id":"AAT133711"},{"text":"gold braid","id":"AAT248064"},{"text":"brass (alloy)","id":"AAT10946"}],"techniques":[{"text":"hand stitching","id":"x30413"},{"text":"machine stitching","id":"x29587"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk, felt, velvet, gold braid, brass, linen, straw","categories":[{"text":"Entertainment & Leisure","id":"THES48959"},{"text":"Dance","id":"THES252984"},{"text":"Costumes","id":"THES269529"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&P","id":"THES48602"},"images":[],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"003","id":"THES344039"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Theatre costume","id":""}],[{"text":"dance costume","id":"x34504"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1920","earliest":"1920-01-01","latest":"1920-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Purchased with the assistance of the London Archives of the Dance","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"86","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"length shoulder to hem","note":""},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"115","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"circumference where blue silk 'skirt' attaches","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"49","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Length of sleeve","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Historical significance: An imaginative and theatrical translation of Chinoiserie for the stage","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Costume for a Warrior in Massine's ballet Le Chant du rossignol designed by Henri Matisse, created for Serge Diaghilev's Ballets Russes 1920. ","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["S.4-2004"],"accessionNumberNum":"4","accessionNumberPrefix":"S","accessionYear":2004,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-03-13","recordCreationDate":"2005-03-03","availableToBook":true}}