{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O109723"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O109723/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006BG5198/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006BG5198/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006BG5198","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006BF0367","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017JV9017","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017JV9018","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O109723","accessionNumber":"T.31-1974","objectType":"Evening cape","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"This evening cape by Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895–1972) is made from white gazar. It is double-breasted with four covered buttons and has a deep flounce seam and inset pocket in the flounce. It was designed to be worn with matching dress and is typical of the pared-down elegance of his creations of the 1960s. \r\n\r\nBorn in Spain, Balenciaga moved to Paris to set up a successful business as a couturier in 1937 in the heart of the Golden Triangle (the centre of the production and consumption of luxury goods). By the time he designed this cape in 1963 he had been considered the master of couture for some years, renowned for his innovative cut, his consummate skill in design, and his perfectionism. \r\n\r\nBalenciaga collaborated with textile manufacturers in the development of new fabrics. Gazar was the result of his working relationship with the Swiss textile manufacturer Abraham. It is made of silk and has good body, thus lending itself to sculptural designs. \r\n\r\nGloria Guinness (née Rubio y Alatorre) had this cape made. She was a regular patron of Balenciaga's establishment in Paris. An elegant socialite and writer of the mid-20th century, she married three times, her final husband being Group Captain Thomas Loel Guinness MP, heir to the Guinness beer fortune.","physicalDescription":"Evening cape of white gazar with double-breasted appearance. There are two vertical darts on the front, either side of the fastening, to shape the bodice. The back of the bodice is made from a single piece of gazar, its front is made from two pieces. The pleated skirt is separate from the bodice and is made from four pieces of gazar. The skirt is wider at the back than at the front. On the inside, a small strip of stiff nylon net is sewn to the uppermost part of the skirt, where it meets the bottom of the bodice. This part is folded over inside and stitched to the bodice. The top of the skirt is pleated, which gives the cape its distinctive shape. The wearer's arms emerge from horizontal slits between the bodice and the skirt. The slits were made by folding a part of the bodice upwards, on the inside, and stitching it in place. On the front of the bodice are four covered buttons, only two of which are functional. On the inside are two poppers at the top and two hooks at the bottom, to hold the cape straight. On the front of the skirt are two vertical slit pockets, partially concealed in the skirt's folds. The pockets have been made on the grain of the fabric, which stabilises it. The white satin lining is mounted to the inside rather than fitted, it is not padded. All inside seams are edged with a narrow band of white satin.\n","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Cristóbal Balenciaga","id":"A2011"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"Gazar silk","id":"x38235"},{"text":"satin","id":"AAT132902"}],"techniques":[{"text":"weaving","id":"AAT53642"},{"text":"hand sewing","id":"AAT257459"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk gazar, silk satin","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Evening wear","id":"THES48999"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2006BG5198","2006BF0367","2017JV9017","2017JV9018"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"016","id":"THES307833"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Evening cape","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Paris","id":"x29068"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"February 1963","earliest":"1963-02-01","latest":"1963-02-28"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Mrs Loel Guinness","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Width","value":"40","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"shoulder to shoulder","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"102","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"nape to hem","note":""},{"dimension":"Diameter","value":"100","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"footprint diameter","note":""},{"dimension":"Height","value":"155","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"Maximum approximate dimension when mounted on a figure for loan; LNO86."},{"dimension":"Depth","value":"80","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"Maximum approximate dimension when mounted on a figure for loan; LNO86."},{"dimension":"Length","value":"79.7","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Centre front length","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"17","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Neck width (SNP to SNP)","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"101","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Centre back length","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"17.8","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Pocket length","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"0.8","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Pocket width","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Mannequin size: 42","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'Balenciaga, 10 Avenue George V, Paris'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Label, black on white machine woven, inside back collar"},{"content":"'86326'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Printed on back of label"}],"objectHistory":"Worn and given by Gloria Guinness [70/3752F]\r\n","historicalContext":"Gloria Guinness (nee Gloria Rubio y Alatorre, 1912-1980) was an elegant socialite and writer of the mid 20th century.\r\n\r\nHer third husband, whom she married in 1951, was Group Capt. Thomas Loel Guinness, a Member of Parliament (died 1989) and an heir to the Guinness beer fortune. \r\n\r\nShe was voted 'Best Dressed Woman' in the world by <i>Time</i> magazine in 1962 behind Jackie Kennedy in first place.  (See <i>Time</i> magazine Jan 26 1962)\r\n\r\nShe owned seven homes, with a full wardrobe in each so that she would never have to pack or wait at customs.  She spread her patronage widely, and amongst donations to the V&A of pieces by Dior, Balenciaga, Givenchy etc., are pieces by lesser known couturiers such as Chaumont and Lafaurie.","briefDescription":"Gazar evening cape, designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, February 1963.","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"<i>Fashion : An Anthology by Cecil Beaton</i>. London : H.M.S.O., 1971","id":"AUTH354373"},"details":"no. 22","free":""},{"reference":{"text":"<i>Hommage à Balenciaga</i>. Lyon : Musée Historique des Tissus, 1985","id":"AUTH354695"},"details":"no. 144","free":""},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"The following excerpt is taken from Jouve, Marie-Andrée, and Demornex, Jacqueline. <i>Balenciaga</i>. New York: Rizzoli, 1989.\n\n\"The collaboration with Gustave Zumsteg was [even more] important.  During the sixties Abraham cloth was used for one third of his collections.  Like other manufacturers, Zumsteg created materials especially for Balenciaga, complying with his needs and wishes.  Balenciaga was able to select exactly what he wanted from hundreds of similar versions.  On certain occasions they joined creative forces.  Gazar, produced by Zumsteg in 1958, and Zagar (super-gazar, made in 1964), were more than simply materials.  Zumsteg provided Balenciaga with a texture, a thickness, a stiffness and a weight as essential to the Master as Carrara marble to the sculptor\"."}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"Haute couture","id":"THES48861"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[{"text":"Guinness, Loel","id":"N4525"},{"text":"Beaton, Cecil","id":"N2787"}],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"THE PERFECT ‘LOOSE FIT’\r\nBalenciaga adjusted conventional cape design to ensure this garment fitted perfectly. Two pieces of fabric instead of one are joined at a horizontal seam. The upper piece is slightly larger to allow space for the arm. The shoulder seam sits marginally forward and beautifully concealed pockets are formed in the side seams so as not to interfere with the shape of the garment.\r\n\r\nWoman’s evening cape\r\nSilk gazar lined with silk satin\r\nCristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, 1963\r\nGiven by Mrs Loel Guinness\r\nV&A: T.31-1974","date":{"text":"27/05/2017-07/02/2018","earliest":"2017-05-27","latest":"2018-02-07"}}],"partNumbers":["T.31-1974"],"accessionNumberNum":"31","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1974,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"Model number","id":"THES52264"},"number":"195"},{"type":{"text":"Couture number","id":"THES52257"},"number":"86326"}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-03-13","recordCreationDate":"2005-02-28","availableToBook":false}}