{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O108039"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O108039/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AM4710/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AM4710/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AM4710","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006BC6570","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2020ML3731","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2021NA4439","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O108039","accessionNumber":"FE.313:1 to 12-1995","objectType":"Qipao","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"This flamboyant fastening is the only visible means of closure on this garment.  There are, however, press-studs along the collarbone, a hook and eye at the neck, and a zip up the right hand side.  This type of dress is known as a <i>cheongsam</i> or <i>qipao</i> and the decorative frogging became one it its distinctive features.  As which most <i>cheongsams</i> of this sort, the frogging matches the trim around the edges.  Whether they are plain or convoluted, each fastening is composed of two parts.  The 'eye' is the half that includes the loop and this part is sewn on the upper side of the dress.  The 'head' incorporates the knot button and is fixed to the  lower side.  Whereas most <i>cheongsam</i> tailors are men, women are employed to make these buttons and loops.  Strips of bias-cut cloth are passed around thin wire, which is then twisted into the desired shape and sewn down onto the dress.  The flower formation echoes the  flowers woven into the red damask of this garment and there are two 'long life' characters also incorporated into the fastening.","physicalDescription":"Woman's dress (known as a <i>cheongsam</i> in Cantonese or a <i>qipao</i> in Mandarin) of red silk together with an offcut of the silk and five pairs of alternative decorative knot buttons and loops.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Leung, Ching Wah (Linva Tailor)","id":"A13938"},"association":{"text":"tailor","id":"AAT25365"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"}],"techniques":[],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk damask","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Accessories","id":"THES48998"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"EAS","id":"THES48596"},"images":["2006AM4710","2006BC6570","2020ML3731","2021NA4439"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"010","id":"THES390082"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"019","id":"THES312242"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"020","id":"THES312243"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"020","id":"THES312243"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"020","id":"THES312243"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"020","id":"THES312243"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"020","id":"THES312243"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"020","id":"THES312243"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"020","id":"THES312243"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"020","id":"THES312243"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"020","id":"THES312243"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"020","id":"THES312243"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Qipao","id":""}],[{"text":"Fragment","id":""}],[{"text":"Button","id":""}],[{"text":"Button","id":""}],[{"text":"Button","id":""}],[{"text":"Button","id":""}],[{"text":"Button","id":""}],[{"text":"Button","id":""}],[{"text":"Button","id":""}],[{"text":"Button","id":""}],[{"text":"Button","id":""}],[{"text":"Button","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Hong Kong","id":"x30049"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1995","earliest":"1995-01-01","latest":"1995-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"This qipao was especially commissioned by the Victoria and Albert Museum in 1995 as the museum already had a growing collection of historic qipao. The decision to acquire a contemporary example was  timely in view of the revival of interest in national dress of all kinds worldwide.  Mr Leung ( Leung Ching Wah) of Linva Tailor was chosen on the advice of members of the very active Textile Society of Hong Kong. As the qipao is a bespoke garment, and one of its chief features is a perfect fit, it had to be fitted to a model and a V&A curator, Verity Wilson ( Far Eastern Section, V&A from 1979-2005) served as the client for Mr Leung.  Mr Leung, who had never heard of the V&A, had been in business in Cochrane Steet, Hong Kong, for 25 years. Although many Hong Kong qipao tailors were originally from Shanghai, as is Mr Leung, especially after the communist takeover in the PRC in 1949, today this is not necessarily the case. There were five tailors at work in Linva Tailor at the time the V&A's dress was being made. Mr Leung's wife was the accountant.\r\n\r\nThe choice of material, general style and button closures were negotiated between Mr Leung and the client.  However, the rather staid and subdued cream, bamboo-patterned silk with mushroom-coloured edging that was first chosen was rejected finally in favour of the bright red and yellow qipao that is now FE.313.1-1995.  It may be a coincidence but these colours are those of the flag of the People's Republic, to which Hong Kong was to return two years later in 1997. \r\n\r\nMeasurements were taken in silence, nothing was written down, the red silk (called 'an old-style pattern' by Mr Leung) was folded and the outlines of the shape marked on the silk with soft tailor's chalk and a metal ruler. Only one fitting was needed.\r\n\r\nMr Leung kept a handdrawn card of all the different variations of frogging - these pushed the price up considerably\r\n\r\nPlease see the RF 95/1375 for photographs of the shop, the street in Hong Kong, the dress being made and Mr Leung.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Dress for a woman (<i>qipao</i>), fragment and buttons, made by Ching Wah Leung of Linva Tailor, Hong Kong, 1995","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"Crill R, Wearden JM, Wilson V, Victoria and Albert Museum. Dress in Detail from around the World. London: V&A Publications, 2002.","id":"AUTH333338"},"details":"pp.58-59","free":""},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Naomi Yin-yin Szeto, <u>Of Hearts and Hands: Hong Kong's Traditional Trades and Crafts</u>,  Hong Kong: Hong Kong Museum of History, 1995"}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"flowers","id":"x35571"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["FE.313:1-1995","FE.313:2-1995","FE.313:3-1995","FE.313:4-1995","FE.313:5-1995","FE.313:6-1995","FE.313:7-1995","FE.313:8-1995","FE.313:9-1995","FE.313:10-1995","FE.313:11-1995","FE.313:12-1995"],"accessionNumberNum":"313","accessionNumberPrefix":"FE","accessionYear":1995,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE","Qipao","Fragment","Button [1]","Button [2]","Button [3]","Button [4]","Button [5]","Button [6]","Button [7]","Button [8]","Button [9]","Button [10]"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-05-11","recordCreationDate":"2004-12-21","availableToBook":true}}