{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O1059498"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1059498/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2010EE8382/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2010EE8382/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2010EE8382","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O1059498","accessionNumber":"PH.185-1985","objectType":"Photograph","titles":[{"title":"Fashion Photograph, 1975","type":"generic title"},{"title":"Women in a Bath House","type":"generic title"}],"summaryDescription":"","physicalDescription":"","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Deborah Turbeville","id":"A26695"},"association":{"text":"photographer","id":"x43821"},"note":""},{"name":{"text":"Turbeville, Deborah","id":"A26695"},"association":{"text":"artist","id":"AAT25103"},"note":"Deborah Turbeville (1932 – 2013) was one of the most revered and influential fashion photographers working during the 1970s and ’80s. Beginning as an editor at Harper’s Bazaar, Turbeville completed a workshop with Richard Avedon before starting her own photographic career in 1966. She worked with magazines including Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Nova, and the New York Times Magazine, and with worked with clients such as Comme des Garçons, Guy Laroche, Valentino, and Calvin Klein. Her legacy has helped alter the way we view women in fashion imagery."}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"photographic paper","id":"AAT14190"}],"techniques":[{"text":"fresson","id":"AAT133414"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Fresson colour print from original transparency","categories":[],"styles":[{"text":"art photography","id":"AAT178594"}],"collectionCode":{"text":"PDP","id":"THES48595"},"images":["2010EE8382"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"LVLF","id":"THES49656"},"free":"","case":"EDU","shelf":"WOMEN PHOTOGRAPHERS B","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"photograph","id":"AAT46300"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":"In an era and industry defined by the male gaze, Turbeville’s hauntingly eerie fashion photographs reject the highly sexualized colour photographs favoured in the 1970s and 80s. Unlike her male peers Guy Bourdin and Helmut Newton, Turbeville photographed in dreamy black and white, often in surprising locations; her subjects are aloof and detached yet distinctly feminine. This fashion shoot was conducted in a depilated Manhattan bath house and was considered controversial at the time due to its association with lesbianism, asylums, and Auschwitz. Turbeville would often manipulate her negatives to provide commentary on fashion’s exploitation of women — scratching, tearing and distressing them — to make the finished images redolent of decay. She employed faded tones and her prints were often deliberately overexposed, rendering subjects spectral and melancholic. "}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1975","earliest":"1975-01-01","latest":"1975-12-31"},"association":{"text":"photographed","id":"x30151"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"19.8","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Fashion photograph by Deborah Turbeville of women in a bath house, published in American Vogue, May 1975. Fashion: Jean-Louis  Scherrer, Stephen Burrows, Courreges, Ungaro","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["PH.185-1985"],"accessionNumberNum":"185","accessionNumberPrefix":"PH","accessionYear":1985,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-08","recordCreationDate":"2009-06-30","availableToBook":false}}