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The bright colours and relative simplicity of the designs by Norman Wilkinson (1882-1934) were in complete contrast to the detailed, often cumbersome productions that were the legacy of 19th century realism.  \r\nThe costume is of great extravagance.  This fits in with Viola being the embassy of a rich lord paying court to his beloved.  It required 5 5/6 yards of a magnificent silver and white brocade which cost £11.13s.4d (about £830 at 2008 prices), plus the cost of the superb brilliant pink lining.  The total cost of the production was £619.7s.1d (about £45,000 at 2008 prices).  \r\nThe effect of this coat over Viola's black and green doublet and breeches (see S.1356-1984) must have been spectacular to an audience used to the genteel tones of most Edwardian fashion.  The severe simplicity was also in contrast to the frills and froth of many dresses of the period.","physicalDescription":"\r\nSleeveless overgown of silk damask (main fabric of silver/gold silk satin with warm silver metal threads forming the pattern). Coat ends just below the knee and features a wide collar which extends down the centre front lines to the hem.  Overgown is lined with cerise (shocking pink) silk satin.\r\n","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Wilkinson, Norman","id":"A9591"},"association":{"text":"costume designers","id":"AAT163428"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"satin","id":"AAT132902"},{"text":"damask","id":"AAT163295"}],"techniques":[{"text":"machine stitching","id":"x29587"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"silver damask, satin.","categories":[{"text":"Entertainment & Leisure","id":"THES48959"},{"text":"Theatre","id":"THES250537"},{"text":"Theatre costume","id":"THES268477"},{"text":"Shakespeare","id":"THES253244"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&P","id":"THES48602"},"images":["2014HA3949","2014HA3950","2014HA3951","2014HA3952","2014HA3953","2014HA3954","2014HA3955","2014HA3956","2014HA3957","2014HA3958","2014HA3959","2014HA3960","2014HA3961","2014HA3962","2014HA3963","2014HA3964","2014HA3965","2014HA3966","2014HA3967","2014HA4012","2014HA4013","2014HA4034","2014HA4035","2014HA4036","2014HA4037","2014HA4038","2014HA4039","2014HA4040","2014HA4041","2014HA4042","2014HA4043","2014HA4044","2014HA4045","2014HA4046","2014HA4047","2014HA4048","2017KM3763","2017KM3764"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"002","id":"THES366616"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"theatre costumes","id":"x47007"}],[{"text":"gowns","id":"AAT46161"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1912","earliest":"1912-01-01","latest":"1912-12-31"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by the British Theatre Museum Association","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"130","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"07/12/2017","earliest":"2017-12-07","latest":"2017-12-07"},"part":"Collar to hem (laid flat)","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"45","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"07/12/2017","earliest":"2017-12-07","latest":"2017-12-07"},"part":"Cross shoulders (laid flat)","note":""},{"dimension":"Height","value":"20.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Sleeve opening (laid flat)","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"38","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Waist (approximate point - laid flat)","note":""},{"dimension":"Weight","value":"1.9","unit":"kg","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"07/12/2017","earliest":"2017-12-07","latest":"2017-12-07"},"part":"Weighed on hanger","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Costume for Viola worn by Lillah McCarthy in William Shakespeare's play 'Twelfth Night' performed at the Savoy Theatre, London, 15th November 1912.  The production was directed by Granville Barker and designed by Norman Wilkinson.  \r\nThe coat was part of Lillah McCarthy's collection and was given to the British Theatre Museum Association by Mrs R. B. Hetherington, through the Borough of Worthing Museum and Art Gallery, in October 1966.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Overgown of silver brocade for Viola worn by Lillah McCarthy in 'Twelfth Night', Savoy Theatre, London, 1912","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"Reason For Production: Commission","productionType":{"text":"Unique","id":"THES48864"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[{"text":"Viola","id":"N2576"}],"associatedPerson":[{"text":"Shakespeare, William","id":"N15"},{"text":"McCarthy, Lillah","id":"N2876"},{"text":"Viola","id":"N2576"}],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":["Twelfth Night"],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["S.1357-1984"],"accessionNumberNum":"1357","accessionNumberPrefix":"S","accessionYear":1984,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"BTMA accession number","id":"THES51752"},"number":"1966/A/216"}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-06-11","recordCreationDate":"2004-08-25","availableToBook":true}}