{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O102761"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O102761/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2017KM6706/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2017KM6706/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2017KM6706","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KM6707","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2018KN7700","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2018KN7706","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2018KN7707","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2018KN7708","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2018KN7709","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2018KN7920","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2018KN7921","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O102761","accessionNumber":"S.1356-1984","objectType":"Theatre costume","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"Harley Granville Barker's production of <i>Twelfth Night</i> in 1912 was one of a trio of his  productions that helped revolutionise attitudes to Shakespearean production and design in the early 20th century. The bright colours and relative simplicity of the designs by Norman Wilkinson (1882-1934) were in complete contrast to the detailed, often cumbersome productions that were the legacy of 19th century realism.  \n\r\nThe costume combines doublet and breeches in one, making it comfortable and easy to move in. It was also equally flattering to the male and female figure - necessary not only because Viola spends much of the play masquerading as a boy, but because her twin brother, Sebastian, also has to wear a costume of the same design.  \r\nThe costume was made of 8 yards of black silk costing £1.11s.4d (about £111.15p at 2008 prices), 12 yards of green silk costuing 18s.00d (about £63 at 2008 prices); to dye the 6 pieces braid cost 13s.6d (about £48 at 2008 prices).  The total cost of Viola's costumes was £35.10.7d (about £2520 at 2008 prices).","physicalDescription":"Doublet and breeches of black silk, slashed, the slashes underlaid with emerald green silk, recreating the popular Elizabethan fashion.  Doublet has long sleeves and a standing collar, and is attached to a sleeveless vest of cotton, fastening centre front with hooks and eyes. Hooks at waist (outside) at front to attach to doublet. Lined with off-white cotton.  Doublet is further decorated with narrow green wool braid. Fastens centre front with metal hooks and eyes. One row of off-white, spherical plastic (?) buttons either side centre front for decorative purposes. Upper edge of standing collar is wired. Lined with off-white wool mix (?), boned. White cotton false collar and cuffs. Breeches are hemmed with bands of wide black elastic.  Doublet and breeches have been sewn together at the waist, with metal hook and eye closures added to waistline, possibly to allow the performer to climb in and out of the costume to allow for a 'quick change' between scenes.  ","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Wilkinson, Norman","id":"A9591"},"association":{"text":"costume designers","id":"AAT163428"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"}],"techniques":[{"text":"machine stitching","id":"x29587"},{"text":"hand sewing","id":"AAT257459"},{"text":"hand sewing","id":"AAT257459"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"silk\r\ncotton\r\nplastic","categories":[{"text":"Entertainment & Leisure","id":"THES48959"},{"text":"Theatre","id":"THES250537"},{"text":"Theatre costume","id":"THES268477"},{"text":"Shakespeare","id":"THES253244"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&P","id":"THES48602"},"images":["2017KM6706","2017KM6707","2018KN7700","2018KN7706","2018KN7707","2018KN7708","2018KN7709","2018KN7920","2018KN7921"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"002","id":"THES366816"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"theatre costume","id":"x47007"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1912","earliest":"1912-01-01","latest":"1912-12-31"},"association":{"text":"designed","id":"x29338"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by the British Theatre Museum Association","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"49.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Neckline to waist (laid flat)","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"78","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Waistline to leg hem (laid flat)","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"40","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Waist (laid flat)","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"61","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Sleeve - shoulder to cuff (laid flat)","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"13","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Collar to shoulder seam (laid flat)","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"37","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Waistline to crotch (laid flat)","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"44","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Width of leg at widest point (laid flat)","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"125","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"11/12/2017","earliest":"2017-12-11","latest":"2017-12-11"},"part":"Collar to hem","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"38","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"11/12/2017","earliest":"2017-12-11","latest":"2017-12-11"},"part":"Across shoulders","note":""},{"dimension":"Weight","value":"1.4","unit":"kg","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"11/12/2017","earliest":"2017-12-11","latest":"2017-12-11"},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Costume for Viola as Ceasrio worn by Lillah McCarthy in William Shakespeare's play 'Twelfth Night' at the Savoy Theatre, London, 15th November 1912.  The production was directed by Granville Barker and designed by Norman Wilkinson.\r\n \r\nThe coat was part of Lillah McCarthy's collection and was given to the British Theatre Museum Association by Mrs R. B. Hetherington, through the Borough of Worthing Museum and Art Gallery, in October 1966.\n\nHistorical significance: Twelfth Night was one of the trio of mould-breaking productions by Harley Granville Barker (the others being The Winter's Tale and A Midsummer Night's Dream).  The costumes cost £619.7s.1d (about £45,000 at 2008 prices) of the total production costs of £1190.5s.12d (about £85,000 at 2008 prices)","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Costume for Viola as Cesario in Shakespeare's Twelfth Night, designed by Norman Wilkinson, worn by Lillah McCarthy, Savoy Theatre, London, 1912","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"Reason For Production: Commission","productionType":{"text":"Unique","id":"THES48864"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[{"text":"Viola","id":"N2576"}],"associatedPerson":[{"text":"Shakespeare, William","id":"N15"},{"text":"McCarthy, Lillah","id":"N2876"},{"text":"Viola","id":"N2576"}],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":["Twelfth Night"],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["S.1356-1984"],"accessionNumberNum":"1356","accessionNumberPrefix":"S","accessionYear":1984,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"BTMA accession number","id":"THES51752"},"number":"1966/A/216"}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-02-11","recordCreationDate":"2004-08-25","availableToBook":true}}